Source for Parts

[Ivan Mascovich]

I am building a lighted model ship which is my first electronics project.
(e.g. blinking lights). I have been through a number of part catalogs
(digikey, mousers, etc.) looking for the following.

1. Male and female connectors with about 10-12 wires. Would like to buy
with lengths of wire attached. Would like a connector no more than about
an inch across. Prefer multi-colored wire.

The purpose here is to build the ship parts in components, be able to
test the lighting for each component, then connect together when the
components are linked.

2. The electronics and switches will be outside the ship. I need to run a
cable similar to those described above through the base. The base has
pillars that run up into the bottom of the hull. To make the connection I
would like to have a male plug on one of thes pillars and a female socket
inside the hull such that when placed upon the base, one gets a
connection. I need something with about 10-12 connections that are fairly
sturdy. (Only needs to be detached a few times a year for display - not
heavy duty - but bent pins would be a pain.)

My inability to locate such parts may be a result of inexperience at
reading the part catalogs. I have found ribbon cable with female
connectors but I have not seen the male connectors with ribbon to go with
them. I haven't seen anything like #2. If anyone have any suggestions for
sources I'd be interested in hearing them.

Thanks,
I.

 

[Peter Bennett]

I am building a lighted model ship which is my first electronics project.
(e.g. blinking lights). I have been through a number of part catalogs
(digikey, mousers, etc.) looking for the following.

1. Male and female connectors with about 10-12 wires. Would like to buy
with lengths of wire attached. Would like a connector no more than about
an inch across. Prefer multi-colored wire.

<much snippage>

I would suggest D-subminature connectors - like the DE-9 and DB-25
connectors used on PC serial and parallel ports. There is a DA-15
size midway between the 9 and 25.

You are unlikely to find these (or most) connectors with wires already
attached, unless you buy a cable and cut it apart.

You could use the bare D-sub connectors without hoods to reduce the
length of the connector.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

 

[Lord Garth]

You might try Molex at this link:

http://www.molex.com/cgi-bin/bv/molex/index_login.jsp

Then select wire to wire under their quick links and put in your
specifications.

24 gauge wire using and IDT (Insulation Displacement Termination)
on 2 rows would be fine...

 

[Jasen Betts]

I am building a lighted model ship which is my first electronics project.
(e.g. blinking lights). I have been through a number of part catalogs
(digikey, mousers, etc.) looking for the following.

1. Male and female connectors with about 10-12 wires. Would like to buy
with lengths of wire attached. Would like a connector no more than about
an inch across. Prefer multi-colored wire.

The purpose here is to build the ship parts in components, be able to
test the lighting for each component, then connect together when the
components are linked.

2. The electronics and switches will be outside the ship. I need to run a
cable similar to those described above through the base. The base has
pillars that run up into the bottom of the hull. To make the connection I
would like to have a male plug on one of thes pillars and a female socket
inside the hull such that when placed upon the base, one gets a
connection. I need something with about 10-12 connections that are fairly
sturdy. (Only needs to be detached a few times a year for display - not
heavy duty - but bent pins would be a pain.)

My inability to locate such parts may be a result of inexperience at
reading the part catalogs. I have found ribbon cable with female
connectors but I have not seen the male connectors with ribbon to go with
them. I haven't seen anything like #2. If anyone have any suggestions for
sources I'd be interested in hearing them.

maybe you could use mini-din plugs (they're round and under half an inch
across - as seen on many mice...)
you get upto 8 pins per plug, so you may need to use 2
and you'll have to attach the wires yourself. (so you'll need a soldering
iron...)

but really the answer depends on how big this model boat is and how much
current those lights need, you may do better with connectors designed for
automotive use, and soldering may be the most conveneint way to connect
wires to those too.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Ivan Mascovich]

maybe you could use mini-din plugs (they're round and under half an
inch across - as seen on many mice...)
you get upto 8 pins per plug, so you may need to use 2
and you'll have to attach the wires yourself. (so you'll need a
soldering iron...)

I'll take a look. Soldering's no problem. I migh even be able to get away
with 7 circuits. I would probably use every one available for effect.

but really the answer depends on how big this model boat is and how
much current those lights need, you may do better with connectors
designed for automotive use, and soldering may be the most conveneint
way to connect wires to those too.

The ship is about 4 1/2 feet long. I can see putting over 100 LEDs in it. I
am seeing current drains of 2.5 AMPS at 9 volts. Another problem here is
the power supply. 3 AMPs would be safe but i don't see many 9v AC adapters
putting out that much current.

 

[Jasen Betts]

I'll take a look. Soldering's no problem. I migh even be able to get away
with 7 circuits. I would probably use every one available for effect.


The ship is about 4 1/2 feet long. I can see putting over 100 LEDs in it. I
am seeing current drains of 2.5 AMPS at 9 volts. Another problem here is
the power supply. 3 AMPs would be safe but i don't see many 9v AC adapters
putting out that much current.

They can be had (generally a box with a lead that runs the outlet) or you
could split the LEDs into three groups and use three 9v1A plugpacks.

but I don't think the pins on a mini din are rated for that sort of current.

those barrel shaped plugs they use on the plugpacks are good for about 4A i
think maybe you could run the DC into the boat through one of them and put
your lighting switching electronics inside the and just run control signals
to switch relays or transistors etc) through the (or use a 15-pin VGA
connector etc...)

on the other hand if you go to a electronics parts store (instead of a
toystore like r-s) ypu may find they have a plug that more closely
matches your needs.
I've found such places listed in the yellow pages unser "electronics
parts wholesalers". IME they are happy to sell single parts to
walk-in cash customers.

bye

Jasen.

 

[Ivan Mascovich]

They can be had (generally a box with a lead that runs the outlet) or
you could split the LEDs into three groups and use three 9v1A
plugpacks.

I ended up buy 2x1.5 AMP power converters.

Obviously I would not want to put both in parallel. If someone unpluged one
power source while the whole thing were running - POW!.

However, I was wondering if it would be OK to have a common ground, say
connect both power supply + terminals together but have the -'s remain
separately. The reason being to have the ability to have a single master
switch.

 

[Jasen Betts]

I ended up buy 2x1.5 AMP power converters.

Obviously I would not want to put both in parallel. If someone unpluged one
power source while the whole thing were running - POW!.

However, I was wondering if it would be OK to have a common ground, say
connect both power supply + terminals together but have the -'s remain
separately. The reason being to have the ability to have a single master
switch.

that would work as , you could also have them both in series (so long as 18V
isn't going to be a problem and the power converters are putting out DC)

or you could use a double-pole switch to switch both simultaneously.

 

[James Newlon]

You might try a place in Morgan Hill California called Alltronics, their
website is at

WWW.Alltronics.com

and if you need further assistance beyond that call them at

(408)778-3868

and tell them Jim sent you. They have lots of new and used electronics items
and other things of interest.

Jim