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Technomate TM-TWIN-OE burned IC SD4841P 67k65yw3j0fz , equivalent IC required


Jan 20, 2020
Jan 20, 2020
Hi everyone.

Few weeks ago I had a power cut for all the building and my satellite receiver got broken. The device display does not work, but the HDD it can be heard that it spinning.The image on TV got the boot image frozen.

I opened the lid and I found the burned IC: SD4841P 67k65yw3j0fz which is visible burned.


I would like to know what equivalent can be installed since the SD4841P is a bit difficult to find it to local IC store vendors or it takes 2-3 weeks to get it from abroad.

For example if can be TOP221-227 , TNY264/266-268, TNY274-280P/G and if yes, from the given range which exactly and why.

Also what can be done to avoid to happen such circumstances.

Thanks in advance


  • SD4841P datasheet.pdf
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  • TNY264-266-268.pdf
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Jan 20, 2020
Jan 20, 2020
Hi guys.
Good news, the IC SD4841P was replaced on the mother power supply board.
Bad news, when I unscrewed the power supply board, I saw other burned area, as you can see in the pic I send in this email.
The worse scenario, I have searched in Google “B TSFM 10100 10C” and …nothing comparing with the other burned IC SD4841P that I have found suppliers on Ebay. So I do not know what component to search.
That area it belongs to the D3 , on the component is wrote: B TSFM 10100 10C as you can see in the pic attached.

Diagnosis: I have picture on the TV, the “OPENPLI”, but in the receiver, the display does not work, the remote control does not work, the buttons in the front panel does not work.
I have to power off from the back side of the device( the I/0 button).
I can hear the Hard Disk Drive(HDD) spinning , and also the fan.

So basically I do not know the component type to search it , I do not know the manufacturer, the "B" letter printed on the component is not helping a lot in this situation....
So I hope with all my heart someone knows.
Waiting your reply, anything could be helpful.
Thanks in advance.


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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
Aug 21, 2015
Sir lineofstars . . . . .

Your component that currently presently has you stymied , is being a 100V @ 10 amp schottky dual rectifier that generates one of what my researching seems to reveal . . . . as being 3 separate lower voltage supplies . . . . . outputted on the secondary of the units power supplys main transformer. All may be using that same part.
For further referencing, I have now assigned a color coding of YELLOW to that larger power transformer .
HOWEVER, lets look at the WHOLE unit, within the limitations that you have restricted us to, by not initially giving us TOTALLY ALL of the boards component side and foil sides.

I am seeing that the unit is using a separate minor Stand By supply that is being powered up 28
17/23rds hours, every day, that the unit is plugged into A.C. wall power.
That section is including your once already failed IC3.
That section is dependent upon that SD4841P " power supply in a chip " that includes its control, drive, regulation and power output transistor, all being within its cases confines.
So you use THAT specific chip and don't expect any of your already mentioned quasi-clones to mate up exactly with this circuitry.
With this I.C. being a direct AC line powered unit for its standby DC supply . . . . .don't be surpised if an incoming line surge or high voltage line spike (s) might crunch its output transistor and you then end up with a corner of the unit with a big bubble or even exploding and popping out a chunk of the I.C. case. ( Sound familiar already ? )


Starting at the right photos top left corner we see your RED boxed IC that you have replaced. That unit is responsible for providing the +5 VDC standby voltage for the unit. If its plugged into the AC power . . . . . it should have +5V there.
I have assigned PINK color coding to that SB circuitry and a VIOLET box and asterisk to the small standby power transformer.

Now move to the far left photo which I have flipped horizontally, so as to agree with the other photos foil layouts. I also kept pour RED arrow and assigned that power supply section RED color coding.
Now, initially your pointed out RED item is being a common cathode dual diode for full wave rectifying of one winding of the power transformer. Its center terminal connects to the + of the first E-cap in front of it . . . . and then you stopped and showed no more board . . . .but looks like it would pass that foil connection on to the second E-cap beside it and then into the ferrite rod cored series filter inductor next and the RED line flow path stops there, but I would expect it to go the lower ? cap and then pass to the left ? for double E-cap filtering and end up connecting into the ORANGE CN2 connector as one of its voltages.
Two supplies now accounted for.
The center GREY / BLUE inset is showing that another like dual diode is hidden back there and feeeds out its center diode terminal
as the BLUE line to make connection to the pair of BLUE E-caps and then into a ferrite rod cored series filter inductor and out of that and then, probably into the pair of ? E-caps for dual filtering and their outputting into the ORANGE CN2 connector as another one of its voltages.
The last supply would be the GREEN markup with the initial E-cap and then the series ferrote cored line filter and out of that into a final E-cap . . .in a zig-zag routing . . .over to ORANGE CN2 connector as that final voltage.

Since I have no foil to read on those output voltages, I can mag the image on up, and then I am seeing a 10 VDC on the C7 capacitor, so I tend to think that RED and BLUE supplies are being the units +5V and +3.3V and with GREEN being the +12 V.
You can also . . .in being able to actually SEE their values . . . then also mate up the voltage ratings of the caps against the separate supplies.
If you refer to the far right photo, I have a RED circled GREEN + symbol placed, that moves from the center diode connection to the left and passes thru a resistor and then up to a IC2 . . .TO-92 cased . . . .precision adjustable zener . . . TL 431 . . . that outputs into another resistor and then goes up the board to connect into the LED within Photo-Coupler 1 . . . as a COLD connection. The other side is a phototransistor that interfaces into the HOT side for regulation control at U1 controller..


Having the unit unplugged and power drained to zero, should then let you ohm out the supply routes I just ran thru for you and see which is which in reference to the marked connections given on the side of CN2.
Then you monitor the SB5V and see if it comes up on AC power plug in and remains. Then see if it stays, and doesn't drop out or lower appreciably upon an attempt to turn on the whole system with its power on command.
Now if you have replaced the IC and the new one doesn't blow up, yet you still get no +5 SB voltage at my marked up PINK oval E-caps, the first BLOWN IC may have opened up the R19 fusible resistor between the LARGE black MAIN E-cap and IC3's power in.

If alll is well ?

Then see if each of the +3.3, Main 5V and 12VDC are present and holding, OR, if one or all of them come up and then drop out on attempted power ups.

I see the most power need within the 3.3 and 5 supplies and the 12 feeds <1A to your saty receivers LNB (s) and <1A to your units
1 terrible bytes, Hardly Drive, for its DVR function.


YOUR MYSTERY COMPONENT (s) data . . . . . IF . . . actually being needed . . . .

Using my generated photo of the missing top half of the power supply *****

ITS RELEVANCE . . . . . . .

If you don't have the 3.3--5--and 12VDC supplies, they are generated by the C1 MAIN raw DC supply capacitor, Q1 power switching semiconductor and its U1 controller I.C. that drive the MAIN T1 power transformer.

In examining all of the parts associated with the top component side of that supply, by using this referencing


The units power supply is being camera scanned, starting at 4 Min 20 sec
Use your mouse / pause play to advance by frame freezing . . . . . . .

On viewing that, I see the AC line input and passage into a chemical fuse and then out into a contra wound line choke coil pair that both filters EMI and RFI "crap out" and holds internally generated "crap in", but of most interest in our / your situation, is that a strong sharp, short duration line spike coming into both coils simultaneosly create like opposing magnetic fields with the ferrite based core and null out / minumize that spike. I also see a GREEN PTC current inrush limiter associated with the FWB rectifier and the hefty capacitance of C1 main capaciter . . . . purposed to shock absorb initial power inrush .
I see liberal use of CY ceramic capacitors around, along with two large YELLOW . . . . CX type poly caps, used across the AC line.
NOW . . . nowhere . . .unless being hidden by the coiled up AC line cord at one mid area, did I see any MOV's utilized cross the AC line .
Now I don't know if you are a 110VAC cat or a 220VAC cat . . . I'm suspecting the latter . . . . in that case, I personally would put a rated for 220V MOV across the two ends of the line chokes . . . . or across the two existing YELLOW CX capacitors . . .wherever the mounting space permits.
Thus, lessening this U3 crashing situation again. And even use an external AC power strip with MOVs also being incorporated within it.

***** GENERATED PHOTO OF MISSING POWER SUPPLY TOP HALF . . . . .relating to Q1 . . . .U1 . . . .R19 . . .CX2 . . .CX1 . . .C1

73's de Edd . . . . .

Thaaaaaaaaaasssssssit . . . . . I think

Thieves have broken into my house and stolen almost everything, except my soap, shower gel, towels and deodorant. . . . . . . . Gr r r r r r r r r . . . . . those Stinking, Filthy, Dirty Bastards.

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