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Tinning a solid copper bar.

E

eromlignod

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Don
 
M

Meat Plow

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Don

Propane torch
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COOSN-266-06-25794
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
eromlignod said:
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Don


Solder pot.


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Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
H

Homer J Simpson

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Did you clean it thoroughly? You can use acid flux for this as long as you
thoroughly wash it off afterwards. Then you just need enough heat - even a
burner on the stove will do.



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B

Blake

Jan 1, 1970
0
eromlignod said:
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Don

First clean it with Scotch Brite until it's, well, bright.

Then coat it with plenty of flux paste to prevent oxidation when it heats
up.

Next, heat it up. Your iron probably doesn't have enough power. A common
technique to to heat the bar on a hot plate to something below soldering
temperature, and then use the iron to "put it over the top".

And you know about the solder.
 
R

Ross Herbert

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

Don


Believe me, soldering a solid copper bar of this size directly to a
PCB is a no-no!! Even after you get the bar tinned (as suggested with
a propane torch) then you have to somehow get an even greater amount
of heat into it in order to get it soldered to the pcb. Since you
can't use a propane torch for this operation without destroying the
pcb, and a soldering iron won't do the job adequately, then what do
you do?

The only solution is to drill and tap the copper bar (after tinning
all over to stop oxidation) and then use metal thread screws and
washers (combination of flat and shakeproof) to attach it to the pcb.
That is how one Swiss manufacturer of sine wave inverters does it and
I can attest to the effectiveness of this method. This technique also
makes for ease of repairs if you ever have to remove the copper bar
from the pcb.
 
C

Chris

Jan 1, 1970
0
Believe me, soldering a solid copper bar of this size directly to a
PCB is a no-no!! Even after you get the bar tinned (as suggested with
a propane torch) then you have to somehow get an even greater amount
of heat into it in order to get it soldered to the pcb. Since you
can't use a propane torch for this operation without destroying the
pcb, and a soldering iron won't do the job adequately, then what do
you do?

The only solution is to drill and tap the copper bar (after tinning
all over to stop oxidation) and then use metal thread screws and
washers (combination of flat and shakeproof) to attach it to the pcb.
That is how one Swiss manufacturer of sine wave inverters does it and
I can attest to the effectiveness of this method. This technique also
makes for ease of repairs if you ever have to remove the copper bar
from the pcb.

Absolutely. Also, if you get the bar hot enough to accept the solder
(as opposed to "tacking" it on -- not a good high current connection),
it will delaminate the PCB traces. Use pan heads and internal tooth
lockwashers where helpful.

By the way, tinning it first is a good idea, too. Clamp it down using
a couple of pieces of mica or other thermal insulator to keep the vise
from becoming just another heat sink. If a soldering gun doesn't
provide enough heat, try a propane torch. Use external flux (and
*don't* use plumbers' flux or acid flux!)

Good luck
Chris
 
J

Jasen

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi guys:

I'd like to tin one side of a 5/16" square copper bar so that it can
be soldered to a PCB. A soldering iron isn't doing the trick, even
with lots of flux. Any ideas?

get the bar hot enough to melt solder (stick it on the stove or blast
it with a blow-torch) then flux it and apply solder.

Bye.
Jasen
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Absolutely. Also, if you get the bar hot enough to accept the solder
(as opposed to "tacking" it on -- not a good high current connection),
it will delaminate the PCB traces. Use pan heads and internal tooth
lockwashers where helpful.

And when the hot copper cools and contracts, it warps the board.

By the way, tinning it first is a good idea, too. Clamp it down using
a couple of pieces of mica or other thermal insulator

If mica is such a good thermal insulator, why do they use it for
electrical insulation on heat sinks? Just lay it in a piece of firebrick.

Cheers!
Rich
 
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