Sir X12sebastian .
. . . . .
with a . . . . .COMPLETELY . . . . .different answer . . . .
What I am seeing on your first photo is pads where a TEST lug has been totally PULLED out . . . . . . . . as it is then shown in your third photo . . .buck naked.
BOY ! you must be one heck of a a REAL MUSCULAR BRUTE in doing that .
There were two solder pads being used on two of its staked leads to raise it off the PCB and also mount it electro / mehanico / physically.
Note the large hole in the terminal proper, that is being a convenient grip for a clip lead - alligator clip - EZ mini clip - meter probe or scope probes clip.
You can see that the REAL electro- connective aspect of it, is being its bottom pad, of its two, which connects into a foil trace that then goes upward at an ~ 45 deg slant and ties into the all important ORIGINATING solder pad seen up at the ~2 o'clock position, where it then really ties into the circuit point of interest . . . (alternate state)
with its digital stream information.
Now, a quick and EFFECTIVE alternate repair in totally averting that BOO-BOO . . . . . would be to :
1 . . . . .
Take some adequately gauged large bared copper
wire ( . . . that's comparatively being about the size / wire gauge of a heavier common spiraled steel wire paper clip.)
You then get a winding rod form that's being about the outer diameter of the hole inside the original test clip that you showed. Then tightly make a 1 turn loop around that rod and continue with a tight close twisting of the 2 wire ends around themselves, for ~ 1/8 inch of that twisted pair and cut off the wire leaving 1/8 in untwisted ends . Bend out those 1/8 in ends into forming a T. Then you solder tin + rosin flux that T end and move over to that original top solder joint and re tin and set in your T end so that you how have a new wire O test point sticking up.
2 . . . .
Use that very same original test point lug with or without its end extension spikes being cut off. You then just solder tin its central area and reflow solder it into the center of that ORIGINATING solder pad junction . . . . . just previously mentioned . . . thus avoiding your previously trashed, pull out area completely.
FINALLY . . . . . .. . . NOW . . . . . AM I ALSO seeing ? ? ? :
That either there are being two strands of irregular black deteris lying atop and sloping across the board . . . . OR . . . . .if instead, that those ACTUALLY
ARE being, two circuit board BREAKS ***
, thus, with their opening up of numerous
mini foil cross traces . . . forgedddddddddaboutit . . . otherwise
, its . . . . needing the installing of individual jumper wires at all
of those foil breaks, all
across the board.
SINCE the NEANDERTHAL
(s), earlier having been involved with this board, should absolutely be NOWHERE near it . . . . . . and instead . . . . going back to their capable meager mental capabilities of making clubs or chipping rocks into crude tools.
Thaaaaaaaaassit . . . .
73's de Edd . . . . .
Knowledge . . . . is your knowing that a tomato is actually being a fruit.
Wisdom . . . . is not putting it in your fruit salad.