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Trace and connection repair help (Atari centepede PCB)

X12sebastian

Dec 23, 2022
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Dec 23, 2022
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Hey all, I claim to be no professional this is the first small trace I've done (0.1mm) replacing capacitors, and resistors etc is easy enough,but I've never taken this type of challenge essentially, Im fixing someone elses unfortunate mistake they ended up pulling one of the trace caps out with both ends of the trace(that's what I've always called them apologies if that's not their technical definition) and tried to cover it up with tons of bubbled solder and bent the ground in the picture. I've cleaned the areas up best I possibly could and tried already making a new cap but no avail( didn't work correctly. Does anyone have an preferred methods of making a makeshift cap? I know my trace solder points aren't the best but I'm pretty happy with how small of an area I'm working with. I'm open to all forms of ideas, help and criticism the more the better so I can improve upon my work. Thanks
 

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kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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As tempting as it is to repair the actual track it's pretty much a forlorn exercise as no one is (probably) ever going to see any hard work you put into making it look as original as it ever was. Tracing the broken track back/forward to the next nearest component 'land' and hard wiring a link between the two is just as good. Tack the wire down with super glue or glue stick (thermal) and you're good to go.

Where the lands (or pads - not 'cap' as you mention, that's an abbreviation for capacitor and could be misleading) themselves have gone, put the component wire through and bend the lead to reach the end of the missing track else just bend it to keep it secure then use a wire link to the next pad. If it's a plated-through hole then you have to attend to the top side track and land too.

Using the right wire for the links can make a difference too. Where the track is a signal path (i.e. no current carrying capacity of any consequence) you can use solderable enamelled wire (the point-to-point, wire wrap type stuff) that can be obtained in many different colours if multiple tracks have to be done.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Aug 21, 2015
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Sir X12sebastian . . . . . .

with a . . . . .COMPLETELY . . . . .different answer . . . .

What I am seeing on your first photo is pads where a TEST lug has been totally PULLED out . . . . . . . . as it is then shown in your third photo . . .buck naked.
BOY ! you must be one heck of a a REAL MUSCULAR BRUTE in doing that .
There were two solder pads being used on two of its staked leads to raise it off the PCB and also mount it electro / mehanico / physically.
Note the large hole in the terminal proper, that is being a convenient grip for a clip lead - alligator clip - EZ mini clip - meter probe or scope probes clip.
You can see that the REAL electro- connective aspect of it, is being its bottom pad, of its two, which connects into a foil trace that then goes upward at an ~ 45 deg slant and ties into the all important ORIGINATING solder pad seen up at the ~2 o'clock position, where it then really ties into the circuit point of interest . . . (alternate state)ROM2 with its digital stream information.


Now, a quick and EFFECTIVE alternate repair in totally averting that BOO-BOO . . . . . would be to :

1 . . . . .
Take some adequately gauged large bared copper wire ( . . . that's comparatively being about the size / wire gauge of a heavier common spiraled steel wire paper clip.)
You then get a winding rod form that's being about the outer diameter of the hole inside the original test clip that you showed. Then tightly make a 1 turn loop around that rod and continue with a tight close twisting of the 2 wire ends around themselves, for ~ 1/8 inch of that twisted pair and cut off the wire leaving 1/8 in untwisted ends . Bend out those 1/8 in ends into forming a T. Then you solder tin + rosin flux that T end and move over to that original top solder joint and re tin and set in your T end so that you how have a new wire O test point sticking up.

2 . . . . Use that very same original test point lug with or without its end extension spikes being cut off. You then just solder tin its central area and reflow solder it into the center of that ORIGINATING solder pad junction . . . . . just previously mentioned . . . thus avoiding your previously trashed, pull out area completely.

FINALLY . . . . . .. . . NOW . . . . . AM I ALSO seeing ? ? ? :
That either there are being two strands of irregular black deteris lying atop and sloping across the board . . . . OR . . . . .if instead, that those ACTUALLY ARE being, two circuit board BREAKS ***, thus, with their opening up of numerous mini foil cross traces . . . forgedddddddddaboutit . . . otherwise, its . . . . needing the installing of individual jumper wires at all of those foil breaks, all across the board.

*** SINCE the NEANDERTHAL(s), earlier having been involved with this board, should absolutely be NOWHERE near it . . . . . . and instead . . . . going back to their capable meager mental capabilities of making clubs or chipping rocks into crude tools.

Thaaaaaaaaassit . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Knowledge . . . . is your knowing that a tomato is actually being a fruit.
Wisdom . . . . is not putting it in your fruit salad.


.
 
Last edited:

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
6,514
Joined
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*** SINCE the NEANDERTHAL(s), earlier having been involved with this board, should absolutely be NOWHERE near it . . . . . . and instead . . . . going back to their capable meager mental capabilities of making clubs or chipping rocks into crude tools.
(my added bold)

LOL! Oh so true!
 
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