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Trailer electrical/storage box done, lights work

I

Ignoramus31248

Jan 1, 1970
0
Followup to my electrical box questions.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/08-Trailer-Electrical-Box/

I painted it Army Green and attached to trailer with 1/4" bolts.

Inside, there is wiring for LED signals, lights, brakes etc. There is
also a breakaway brake actuator by TAP, also in the box. I have yet to
install a brake controller it my truck (brake controller is not the
same as breakaway actuator).

I put an envelope with most of trailer related receipts, into the
shelf above the electricals, in case if police stops me and asks
(unlikely but possible due to professional appearance of the bed).

One thing I have left to do is to put each LED on a 0.25A fuse. I do
not yet have inline fuseholders.

The lights already have been found to work correctly. That means that
I can drive this trailer legally. (brakes are required for certain GVW
above the empty weight of this trailer)

Spending time under the trailer at 5F is not very fun.

i
 
N

Nick Mueller

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ignoramus31248 said:
One thing I have left to do is to put each LED on a 0.25A fuse. I do
not yet have inline fuseholders.

This is a big chance to start THREE new threads with your triviata.


Nick
 
P

Pete C.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ignoramus31248 said:
Followup to my electrical box questions.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/08-Trailer-Electrical-Box/

I painted it Army Green and attached to trailer with 1/4" bolts.

Inside, there is wiring for LED signals, lights, brakes etc. There is
also a breakaway brake actuator by TAP, also in the box. I have yet to
install a brake controller it my truck (brake controller is not the
same as breakaway actuator).

I put an envelope with most of trailer related receipts, into the
shelf above the electricals, in case if police stops me and asks
(unlikely but possible due to professional appearance of the bed).

One thing I have left to do is to put each LED on a 0.25A fuse. I do
not yet have inline fuseholders.

The lights already have been found to work correctly. That means that
I can drive this trailer legally. (brakes are required for certain GVW
above the empty weight of this trailer)

Spending time under the trailer at 5F is not very fun.

i

I have never, ever seen a normal T1 3/4 LED fused before. LEDs cost less
than the dang fuse and holder. If they fail they explode and open the
circuit just like the fuse would. In addition, a .25A aka 250mA fuse
won't blow before the LED explodes and the series resistor limits the
available current anyway.

Pete C.
 
Followup to my electrical box questions.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Homemade-Trailer-With-M105A2-Bed/08-T...

I painted it Army Green and attached to trailer with 1/4" bolts.

Inside, there is wiring for LED signals, lights, brakes etc. There is
also a breakaway brake actuator by TAP, also in the box. I have yet to
install a brake controller it my truck (brake controller is not the
same as breakaway actuator).

I put an envelope with most of trailer related receipts, into the
shelf above the electricals, in case if police stops me and asks
(unlikely but possible due to professional appearance of the bed).

One thing I have left to do is to put each LED on a 0.25A fuse. I do
not yet have inline fuseholders.

The lights already have been found to work correctly. That means that
I can drive this trailer legally. (brakes are required for certain GVW
above the empty weight of this trailer)

Spending time under the trailer at 5F is not very fun.

i

Ig,

Are you gonna put an electric beer cooler in it, also?

Wolfgang
 
I

Ignoramus31248

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have never, ever seen a normal T1 3/4 LED fused before. LEDs cost less
than the dang fuse and holder. If they fail they explode and open the
circuit just like the fuse would. In addition, a .25A aka 250mA fuse
won't blow before the LED explodes and the series resistor limits the
available current anyway.

I am more concerned about accidental shorts, than with protecting
LED.

i
 
J

John Husvar

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ignoramus31248 said:

"It has a rubber seal and lockable locking handle. It is waterproof
(weatherproof)."

Was. :)

Bringing the wiring out through ordinary box connectors took care of
that, even if you filled around the wires with silicone seal or somesuch.

You might want to look around for sealed connectors. They have a rubber
grommet that compresses around the cable. Hubbell used to make nice
ones, though pricey.

It's amazing how much road spray will get into supposedly watertight
boxes through such small openings.

Still, nice neat box. Only thing you're lacking are enclosure heaters to
keep the condensation down. :)
 
P

Pete C.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ignoramus31248 said:
I am more concerned about accidental shorts, than with protecting
LED.

i

A single fuse in the common ground line to the LED assembly will provide
that protection.
 
I

Ignoramus31248

Jan 1, 1970
0
"It has a rubber seal and lockable locking handle. It is waterproof
(weatherproof)."

Was. :)

Bringing the wiring out through ordinary box connectors took care of
that, even if you filled around the wires with silicone seal or somesuch.

You might want to look around for sealed connectors. They have a rubber
grommet that compresses around the cable. Hubbell used to make nice
ones, though pricey.

It's amazing how much road spray will get into supposedly watertight
boxes through such small openings.

Still, nice neat box. Only thing you're lacking are enclosure heaters to
keep the condensation down. :)

I have a 30w control box heater. Maybe I will use it. I will see how
bad road spray problem is, practically speaking. After all I can just
wipe the inside of the box after some bad trailer trips.

i
 
G

Gunner

Jan 1, 1970
0
Spending time under the trailer at 5F is not very fun.

i
Try it at 110F..on asphalt..

gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and
rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media,
which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible
to pick up a turd by the clean end.
 
I

Ignoramus18738

Jan 1, 1970
0
Try it at 110F..on asphalt..

You got me Gunner... I think that I would prefer 5F. At least, at 5F I
can warm myself with a heat gun...

i
 
G

Gunner

Jan 1, 1970
0
You got me Gunner... I think that I would prefer 5F. At least, at 5F I
can warm myself with a heat gun...

i


Good scarf, carhart coveralls and a chook (cap) with some decent gloves
and you are golden. When laying on the asphalt..you pray for shade or
work at night.

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and
rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media,
which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible
to pick up a turd by the clean end.
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
A single fuse in the common ground line to the LED assembly will provide
that protection.

Never, ever fuse a ground. Put the fuse in the +12 supply line.

Thanks,
Rich
 
I

Ignoramus21592

Jan 1, 1970
0
Never, ever fuse a ground. Put the fuse in the +12 supply line.

Fusing ground is not practical for me (everything is grounded to
case), so I will put fuses in input lines.

Got my registration papers in today.

i
 
J

joseph2k

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ignoramus31248 said:
I have a 30w control box heater. Maybe I will use it. I will see how
bad road spray problem is, practically speaking. After all I can just
wipe the inside of the box after some bad trailer trips.

i

In the mean time you should wipe it down after every trip until you lern how
to judge which ones are bad.
 
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