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Trying to repair a circuit board for a rolling ball clock

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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RGR RGR . . . . ALL . . . of them are being dirt common 2SC9014 NPN transistors , then.
I will see how they fit into that circuitry now.
Can you do that voltage check now . . . . . . . /or/ . . . . . . . next ?
 

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
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RGR RGR . . . . ALL . . . of them are being dirt common 2SC9014 NPN transistors , then.
I will see how they fit into that circuitry now.
Can you do that voltage check now . . . . . . . /or/ . . . . . . . next ?

So I have a multimeter and first attached the leads to the wall adapter to see what output was shown. Even though the switch is set to "6" it was putting out around 7.7. I then tried moving the switch to 4.5 and then the output was 6 volts. I left it at six (4.5 on the switch) and then plugged it into the clock. Now the clock doesn't run at all. No movement from the clock on top. I tried switching it back to "6" on the adapter and plugged it in but still the clock is not running at all.

I can still see the voltage expected (although incorrect) from the adapter. Somehow I trashed the clock even further although the adapter was not attached when I measured the voltages.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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O.K. then,you would now want to make a voltage check across the dedicated RED and BLACK wires going to the black clock unit to see if its 1.5 VDC running voltage is being present.
If . . . . . its being down converted from the wall wart power unit by the dedicated discrete transistor section on this board.
If not, and your battery holder is built like the one in my inset illustration . . .you can precisely see that one specific cell which is powering the clock.
Put a C cell in that section and then see if the clock starts running. Then, that will exclusively be powering the black enclosed clock portion.
Not to worry . . . . .if you then additionally plug in the power adapter, as that series wired, board ends, black cased steering diode ***, provides power adapter isolation for the installed batteries . . . . with there being a one way flow only, but, it will then sort of trickle charge the batteries .
Or, in your case, without having
the other 3 cells installed, that total ~4.5 V supply will then all be coming in from the adapter.
*** I'm seeing only the 00 portion of its marking, so its full marking must be one of the common 1N . . .4 00 1,2,3,4,5,or 7 series of diodes.
That would all then be going to power the motor and, in looking at that initial worm gear coupling into the gear train and THEN its 200-300x gearing down ratio, I would expect gear train run out along, with ball arm rotation loading to be pulling minimally 100-200 ma of current thru the motor for a ball drop cycles duration. ( Of which, you can't tell me at this specific time. )

BACKGROUND . . . . .
How about this units history . . . . . is it a new purchase of yours or a like categorized one that has been working flawlessly for you, for 2 years
( THASSAWHOLELOTTALOTTALOTTALOTTALOTTASTEELBALLDROPS! ) and being powered by that same specific wall wart . . . . . . OR . . . . .shudder . . . .shudder . . . . . is this unit being a used/ donated / gifted / Good Will / Thrift Store / free on Craig's List / or / street curb find . . . . . and . . . . . NOW . . . . . you know why !.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .
 
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Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
Messages
34
O.K. then,you would now want to make a voltage check across the dedicated RED and BLACK wires going to the black clock unit to see if its 1.5 VDC running voltage is being present.
If . . . . . its being down converted from the wall wart power unit by the dedicated discrete transistor section on this board.
If not, and your battery holder is built like the one in my inset illustration . . .you can precisely see that one specific cell which is powering the clock.
Put a C cell in that section and then see if the clock starts running. Then, that will exclusively be powering the black enclosed clock portion.
Not to worry . . . . .if you then additionally plug in the power adapter, as that series wired, board ends, black cased steering diode ***, provides power adapter isolation for the installed batteries . . . . with there being a one way flow only, but, it will then sort of trickle charge the batteries .
Or, in your case, without having
the other 3 cells installed, that total ~4.5 V supply will then all be coming in from the adapter.
*** I'm seeing only the 00 portion of its marking, so its full marking must be one of the common 1N . . .4 00 1,2,3,4,5,or 7 series of diodes.
That would all then be going to power the motor and, in looking at that initial worm gear coupling into the gear train and THEN its 200-300x gearing down ratio, I would expect gear train run out along, with ball arm rotation loading to be pulling minimally 100-200 ma of current thru the motor for a ball drop cycles duration. ( Of which, you can't tell me at this specific time. )

BACKGROUND . . . . .
How about this units history . . . . . is it a new purchase of yours or a like categorized one that has been working flawlessly for you, for 2 years
( THASSAWHOLELOTTALOTTALOTTALOTTALOTTASTEELBALLDROPS! ) and being powered by that same specific wall wart . . . . . . OR . . . . .shudder . . . .shudder . . . . . is this unit being a used/ donated / gifted / Good Will / Thrift Store / free on Craig's List / or / street curb find . . . . . and . . . . . NOW . . . . . you know why !.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .
This clock has been running at least ten years or longer with the same wall wart. Putting a battery in the single slot doesn't power the clock on top. I also put in all four of the batteries (all new) but no reaction. I tested the black and red leads that run to the clock (with the batteries installed) and it shows zero voltage.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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GREAT feedback info !
THAT many years . . ! ! ! . . .I would have thought that the balls would have worn down to BB sizes.
And you have probably become unaware of the constant background noise . . . . such as might hinder a new owner of a " noisy" grandfather clock.
BUT if you have need to time a 3 minute egg . . . there you is.
Or if someone tells you . . . . and then has you waiting . . . . " Just a minute " .

Now we just need to see how/where the 1.5 V supply source to the RED line is being lost.
In our concentrating on the battery holder now.
If being the same configuration, as is seen in my inset picture, we should expect a single negative wire off the bottom single C cell traveling to the PCB and connecting to some point.
THEN the ALL IMPORTANT second wire from the positive terminal of that single C cell to then travel to the PCB to feed the clock with its +1.5 VDC.
Then the need for yet another wire to get the series string of C cells . . .4.5 VDC . . . to the PCB.
Now that was what was needed to be watched closely, since it is bringing in the run voltage for the intermittent use of the motor.

So that picture inset is using 3 leads outputted from the battery holder.

IF you only find two wires being used on your units battery holder wiring, to the PCB, that would suggest a use of some of the discrete transistors for reducing some 4.5 VDC voltage down to +1.5 for that clock power sourcing . . . . . . of which we are currently missing.
Check out your wiring and give feed back.

Now, if I have to read the board traces for further analysis, I presently can't do it by solely using the pics being provided so far, as I am hindered by not being able to FULLY see the back two foil traces. The outer of which, is being a ground trace run.

I can almost use your third photo # 20221014-145826-0 . . . . with some lighting and focus enhancement along with a black / brown solder solder flux clean off, all to the side of your RED circle reference. For my being sure of those few traces.

Check out your wiring and feed back.

73's de Edd . . . . . .
 

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
Messages
34
GREAT feedback info !
THAT many years . . ! ! ! . . .I would have thought that the balls would have worn down to BB sizes.
And you have probably become unaware of the constant background noise . . . . such as might hinder a new owner of a " noisy" grandfather clock.
BUT if you have need to time a 3 minute egg . . . there you is.
Or if someone tells you . . . . and then has you waiting . . . . " Just a minute " .

Now we just need to see how/where the 1.5 V supply source to the RED line is being lost.
In our concentrating on the battery holder now.
If being the same configuration, as is seen in my inset picture, we should expect a single negative wire off the bottom single C cell traveling to the PCB and connecting to some point.
THEN the ALL IMPORTANT second wire from the positive terminal of that single C cell to then travel to the PCB to feed the clock with its +1.5 VDC.
Then the need for yet another wire to get the series string of C cells . . .4.5 VDC . . . to the PCB.
Now that was what was needed to be watched closely, since it is bringing in the run voltage for the intermittent use of the motor.

So that picture inset is using 3 leads outputted from the battery holder.

IF you only find two wires being used on your units battery holder wiring, to the PCB, that would suggest a use of some of the discrete transistors for reducing some 4.5 VDC voltage down to +1.5 for that clock power sourcing . . . . . . of which we are currently missing.
Check out your wiring and give feed back.

Now, if I have to read the board traces for further analysis, I presently can't do it by solely using the pics being provided so far, as I am hindered by not being able to FULLY see the back two foil traces. The outer of which, is being a ground trace run.

I can almost use your third photo # 20221014-145826-0 . . . . with some lighting and focus enhancement along with a black / brown solder solder flux clean off, all to the side of your RED circle reference. For my being sure of those few traces.

Check out your wiring and feed back.

73's de Edd . . . . . .
Tracing the wires led me to a broken black wire coming from the two black power supply lines. I soldered it back to the top of the board (was originally coming in from the bottom) I inserted the batteries and currently the clock is working. Previously it would run for about an hour or two before failing to rotate the arm. I will let it run and see what happens.
 

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Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
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So far it is still running correctly after 22 hours. So potentially the poor wire connection could have been the issue?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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240_F_534310956_IPahvXPEZHO9VNp0Uq8unnnfWM62wPlI.jpg
 

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
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I think this puppy is fixed. Over 96 hours of continuous operation (more than 5700 rotations.)
Thank you 73's de Edd for leading this "fewl" down a path of repair.

It does beg the question of the loose wire. Would that have allowed the clock to run but not the motor?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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From what EXACT point to point connections, was this BLACK wire making ?
 

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
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From what EXACT point to point connections, was this BLACK wire making ?
I was concerned that opening it back up to get exactly where the wire was might cause it to fail again. Unfortunately I was correct. I took pictures of the black wire connection ( I cannot tell if it is positive or negative) then closed the clock back up and powered it up. Now the clock no longer runs. If I move the clock dial around to the zero second the arm will make a revolution. The clock is moving very slightly back and forth but does not advance.

First image shows the black wire and where it connects to the PCB board. The second shows the reverse side of the board and what the black wire attaches to.

I'm pretty depressed at this point.
 

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Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
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Voltage between the two black wires coming into the board is 6.3 volts.
Voltage to the two wires going to the clock is 0.85
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir @Iguanaman . . . . .​


Voltage between the two black wires coming into the board is 6.3 volts.
Voltage to the two wires going to the clock is 0.85


Now 0.85 VDC serving as 1.5 will not go, particularly when its derived supply source . . . .6.3 VDC drops on down, say, to it then being 4.5 VDC, from the running DC gear train motor loading down on that supply line.
Now in my looking at all of those " purty " carboniferous film reeeee-sistors , and all, being of moderate to low resistance , I hesitate to cast any doubt on any of them.
It goes, as well, for any of the discrete, inherently uber reliable silicon planar family transistors. With their untaxed design applications with the sole HARD worker being the temporarily activated motor driver switching transistor.
Nor, any suspicion, for the, far board end mounted, 1N4007 "steering" diode which serves to isolate the battery cell set, IF you have then additionally installed , a plugged in power wall wart, at the sacrifice of a mere 0.700 millivolts voltage drop.
Instead, I want to zero in on the specific E-cap for that 1.5 V supply, which is serving as its power reservoir.
Its the circuit board outer board edge mounted unit, instead of its twin, which is being more center board mounted.
Now the question is being . . .if . . . .you are "into" electronics enough, so as to have another 100 or 220 or 330 or 470 or 1000 ufd at 10-25-35-50 working volts . . . . . E-cap.
OR . . . . . you might have some old electronics that might provide such values of a "loaner" for our test.
Where we then shunt that suspect / ? cap . . . .with all important . . . PROPER / SAME . . . . polarity of leads mating up.
With a pulled E- cap PWOBABWY having vewy-vewy *** short leads, you should solder tack on some short wire extensions using bits of scavenged, small gauge insulated solid copper wire, say, from some CAT 5 cable.
You install and then see if the 0.85, then rises on up up into the ~1.5 V VDC range.

WORKAROUND . . . . . if possibly not having the above part or its / a substitute sourcing
That would be the inter swapping of the twin, like rated E-cap units.
BUT with the prior initial garnishing of some intelligent info from the units.
That would be done by using your meters additional AC voltage reading capability.
Considering that we are SOLELY using the wall wart for power . . .no batts . . . . and in the same manner ( its voltage settings) that has been used all of the prior years.
Now, set up, and in the same manner that you read out the 0.85 volts of the unit .
Then you additionally switch to AC mode and see if there is being a readable AC reading . . .which would be the degree of ripple inherent in that wall warts design. As loading upon the supply is increased the ripple increases.
Anyhow, switch downrange on the meter until there is reference able, within scale reading . . .( Unless your unit is being AUTO-RANGING)
Got that ?
Then lets mark our suspect cap so that any loose off board cross shuffling of the pulled units, results in the reinstalling them in their same identical places !
When reinstalled and the voltage is then up towards that 1.5 level we had a weak cap.
If being about the same, then remeasure that ripple and see what it is now with the cap interchanging.
If reading lower ripple, then the swapped cap has more capacitance than the prior original unit, or more ripple signifies less capacitance.
SO O O O O O O . . . . .if having used the final procedure, with out any good results.
Now, unplug the wall wart and revert to installation of the C cells for battery power .
And since you NEVER told me if only 2 leads are coming in from the battery holder instead of the other referenced units use of 3 leads I have to deduce, only the two end small gauge black leads connect into the PCB from the battery pack / holder..
THEREFORE . . . . the reliance of the drop of that 4.5 VDC from the serial cells to the lower 1.5 needed by the clock . . . . . to ALSO be accomplished by on board discrete components.
So now measure the 0.85 VDC connection to see what it is, when using battery power.
With use of battery power, we could also give your wall wart and its internal E-cap filter and its subjecture to distressing adjunct transformer heat, towards its overall inherent capacitive health.

Talk to me . . . .


A FINAL . . . . .
" Waaaaaaaaaaaaay Faaaaaaaar out thar' . . . . . in left field possibility.
If . . . you are testing with the pcb mounted with its 2 screws installed.
I find no fault with the screw closest to the motor being installed.
Now . . . .CRITICAL CITY . . . . . is being the second screw and if those 2 screws composition are being black oxide coated metal screws.
If they are being black "plastic" / Delrin / or / nylon screws . . . NO problem there.
If being metal screws and with any burr (s) . . . . . . look at the circuit foil underneath, that is being almost totally covered by the screw head at its center board side.
Then look at the other screw heads half, that would be towards the rear edge of the board with there being another separate foil trace that runs across that edge.
Considering the " slop" / lateral play in an oversize hole and the mounting screws effective shank diameter, does it look possible for a far edge positioning of the board, with a "HEALTHY" tightening down of the screwdriver, . . . . . . to then have a screw burr pierce conformal coating on foils to create a shorting between those two separate foils ?
If you have always tested with the board loose . . . . . . there is no possibility . . . . . but I would make an insulated washer to install under THAT screw head.


FIO . . . . . . . .E-caps and their sometimes SHORT Longevity
Most of our modern time E-cap failures will relate to ones being used in switch mode power supplies and their getting absolutely HAMMERED with strong square wave forms, repetitively HITTING them 10's of thousands or . . . on the highest end . . . millions of times a second.
Gradual deterioration and inherent electrolyte depletion and associated / related inherent temperature rise can then speed up deterioration to that threshold where the unit is running excessively hot.
So hot, that eventually, that very last bit of internal moist electrolyte is vaporized into gas and if enough pressure is present, it will cause rupture of the mechanically weaker imbedded X crossses that are stamp pressed into the end of the aluminum case top.
THEN . . . . .you will eventually be left with the tapering effective capacitance of a now truly DRY electrolytic.

I have had . . . the un taxing applications . . . . . of like E-caps, being used in 2 transistor radios of 1956 and 1961 vintages that are still playing for me after 65'ish years .
Plus a Boom box, 4 and 8 track players , reel to reel tape recorder, calculators, car radios from the 60's-70's , at their 50ish years of age.

Post addenda . . . .
I read back and run across :
I tested the black and red leads that run to the clock (with the batteries installed) and it shows zero voltage.
(I wasn't expecting that low of a level ).

Maybe its now time to consider . . . .with this sometimes normal (recent) but IFFY operation (other times) . . . the inspection of ALL solder joints on the PCB and the use of rosin flux core 60/40 solder and re add of FRESH solder to reflow each and every solder connection. The use of a fully tinned tip and the initial add on of about a drop of solder to its tips "action" / touch point will then assure a good INITIAL thermal transfer of HEAT to the solder junction and then use the addition of about enough solder to the touched junction to let about a drop flow into that juncture. Then hold position 'til you see a total melding and reflowing into forming a good, new solder joint.
Also, you could initially have placed a drop of rosin flux on the initial joint to further enhance solder lateral and internal flow ability within that joint.

Floating-Solder-Connection.png

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaassit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

*** Copywight 2022 by Elmer Pee Fudd. All wights wesewved.

tenor.gif
 
Last edited:

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
Messages
34

Sir @Iguanaman . . . . .​


Voltage between the two black wires coming into the board is 6.3 volts.
Voltage to the two wires going to the clock is 0.85


Now 0.85 VDC serving as 1.5 will not go, particularly when its derived supply source . . . .6.3 VDC drops on down, say, to it then being 4.5 VDC, from the running DC gear train motor loading down on that supply line.
Now in my looking at all of those " purty " carboniferous film reeeee-sistors , and all, being of moderate to low resistance , I hesitate to cast any doubt on any of them.
It goes, as well, for any of the discrete, inherently uber reliable silicon planar family transistors.
Nor, any suspicion, for the, far board end mounted, 1N4007 "steering" diode which serves to isolate the battery cell set, IF you have then additionally installed , a plugged in power wall wart, at the sacrifice of a mere 0.700 millivolts voltage drop.
Instead, I want to zero in on the specific E-cap for that 1.5 V supply, which is serving as its power reservoir.
Its the circuit board outer board edge mounted unit, instead of its twin, which is being more center board mounted.
Now the question is being . . .if . . . .you are "into" electronics enough, so as to have another 100 or 220 or 330 or 470 or 1000 ufd at 10-25-35-50 working volts . . . . . E-cap.
OR . . . . . you might have some old electronics that might provide such values of a "loaner" for our test.
Where we then shunt that suspect / ? cap . . . .with all important . . . PROPER / SAME . . . . polarity of leads mating up.
With a pulled E- cap PWOBABWY having vewy-vewy *** short leads, you should solder tack on some short wire extensions using bits of scavenged, small gauge insulated solid copper wire, say, from some CAT 5 cable.
You install and then see if the 0.85, then rises on up up into the ~1.5 V VDC range.

WORKAROUND . . . . . if possibly not having the above part or its / a substitute sourcing
That would be the inter swapping of the twin, like rated E-cap units.
BUT with the prior initial garnishing of some intelligent info from the units.
That would be done by using your meters additional AC voltage reading capability.
Considering that we are SOLELY using the wall wart for power . . .no batts . . . . and in the same manner ( its voltage settings) that has been used all of the prior years.
Now, set up, and in the same manner that you read out the 0.85 volts of the unit .
Then you additionally switch to AC mode and see if there is being a readable AC reading . . .which would be the degree of ripple inherent in that wall warts design. As loading upon the supply is increased the ripple increases.
Anyhow, switch downrange on the meter until there is reference able, within scale reading . . .( Unless your unit is being AUTO-RANGING)
Got that ?
Then lets mark our suspect cap so that any loose off board cross shuffling of the pulled units, results in the reinstalling them in their same identical places !
When reinstalled and the voltage is then up towards that 1.5 level we had a weak cap.
If being about the same, then remeasure that ripple and see what it is now with the cap interchanging.
If reading lower ripple, then the swapped cap has more capacitance than the prior original unit, or more ripple signifies less capacitance.
SO O O O O O O . . . . .if having used the final procedure, with out any good results.
Now, unplug the wall wart and revert to installation of the C cells for battery power .
And since you NEVER told me if only 2 leads are coming in from the battery holder instead of the other referenced units use of 3 leads I have to deduce, only the two end small gauge black leads connect into the PCB from the battery pack / holder..
THEREFORE . . . . the reliance of the drop of that 4.5 VDC from the serial cells to the lower 1.5 needed by the clock . . . . . to ALSO be accomplished by on board discrete components.
So now measure the 0.85 VDC connection to see what it is, when using battery power.
With use of battery power, we could also give your wall wart and its internal E-cap filter and its subjecture to distressing adjunct transformer heat, towards its overall inherent capacitive health.

Talk to me . . . .


A FINAL . . . . .
" Waaaaaaaaaaaaay Faaaaaaaar out thar' . . . . . in left field possibility.
If . . . you are testing with the pcb mounted with its 2 screws installed.
I find no fault with the screw closest to the motor being installed.
Now . . . .CRITICAL CITY . . . . . is being the second screw and if those 2 screws composition are being black oxide coated metal screws.
If they are being black "plastic" / Delrin / or / nylon screws . . . NO problem there.
If being metal screws and with any burr (s) . . . . . . look at the circuit foil underneath, that is being almost totally covered by the screw head at its center board side.
Then look at the other screw heads half, that would be towards the rear edge of the board with there being another separate foil trace that runs across that edge.
Considering the " slop" / lateral play in an oversize hole and the mounting screws effective shank diameter, does it look possible for a far edge positioning of the board, with a "HEALTHY" tightening down of the screwdriver, . . . . . . to then have a screw burr pierce conformal coating on foils to create a shorting between those two separate foils ?
If you have always tested with the board loose . . . . . . there is no possibility . . . . . but I would make an insulated washer to install under THAT screw head.


FIO . . . . . . . .E-caps and their sometimes SHORT Longevity
Most of our modern time E-cap failures will relate to ones being used in switch mode power supplies and their getting absolutely HAMMERED with strong square wave forms, repetitively HITTING them 10's of thousands or . . . on the highest end . . . millions of times a second.
Gradual deterioration and inherent electrolyte depletion and associated / related inherent temperature rise can then speed up deterioration to that threshold where the unit is running excessively hot.
So hot, that eventually, that very last bit of internal moist electrolyte is vaporized into gas and if enough pressure is present, it will cause rupture of the mechanically weaker imbedded X crossses that are stamp pressed into the end of the aluminum case top.
THEN . . . . .you will eventually be left with the tapering effective capacitance of a now truly DRY electrolytic.

I have had . . . the un taxing applications . . . . . of like E-caps, being used in 2 transistor radios of 1956 and 1961 vintages that are still playing for me after 65'ish years .
Plus a Boom box, 4 and 8 track players , reel to reel tape recorder, calculators, car radios from the 60's-70's , at their 50ish years of age.

Post addenda . . . .
I read back and run across :
I tested the black and red leads that run to the clock (with the batteries installed) and it shows zero voltage.
(I wasn't expecting that low of a level ).


Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaassit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

*** Copywight 2022 by Elmer Pee Fudd. All wights wesewved.

tenor.gif
My electronic knowledge is minimal. I do have a 100uf 25v and a 1uf 50v caps available from my arduino kit.

Just out of curiosity I unscrewed the board from the mount and suddenly the clock started working again. The screws are black metallic and I took a picture of the mounting hole. It looks like the traces above and below the screw are being connected once the screw is in place. I added a plastic washer for that screw and everything seems to be functioning again. (Amazing call by the way)
20221029_091344-0.jpg
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Joined
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Messages
3,463
CHICKEN LITTLE WAS RIGHT !
THE SKY IS FALLING . . . .

With little pieces of conformal coating falling off the board !
From their either, initial, non adhesion / coverage or exposure to a rotationally abrasive frictional action.
Followed by their exposed bare copper traces then being shunted together by the otherwise insulative ferrous oxide screw heads coating. . . until its penetrations baring.
Time to make an all en covering insulating washer and install.

THEN . . . . . . reinstate the earlier started SHAKEDOWN / RELIABILITY / MARATHON . . . . . . . . 10 MORE YEARS . . .or BUST !.

Pee Ess

Wouldn't hurt to go ahead and take those inherent ripple readings across the E-caps and also right at the wall warts voltage input corner reference taken in reference to the ground of the top rail / buss foil that runs across the whole top rail of the board.
((( And is also being direct connected with the other fine gauge BLACK wire at that ends other board corner. )))
Store that papers readings in the clock, in the future a consulting and comparison would reveal any significant capacitance declines in those 2 caps and ALSO the supply's MAIN filter cap, that is located inside of the wall wart.
 
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Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
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Messages
34
CHICKEN LITTLE WAS RIGHT !
THE SKY IS FALLING . . . .

With little pieces of conformal coating falling off the board !
From their either, initial, non adhesion or exposure to a rotationally abrasive frictional action.
Followed by their exposed bare copper traces then being shunted together by the otherwise insulative ferrous oxide screw heads coating. . . until its penetration.
Time to make an all en covering insulating washer and install.

THEN . . . . . . reinstate the earlier started SHAKEDOWN / RELIABILITY / MARATHON . . . . . . . . 10 MORE YEARS . . .or BUST !.
My wife located a tiny rubber washer that was a snug fit. Clock back together now and running. I will now wait for a week(?) and see if it continues running. Thank you again!!!
 

Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
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Oct 14, 2022
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My celebration was premature. The clock is back to no longer rotating the arm at the top of the minute.
Are the caps still a potential issue? Should I simply buy some and replace both?
 
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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Three cheers for ye olde goode wyfe ! . . . . . ( my message . . . . to be forwarded on to her . . . . . from a loooong ta l l l l l l Texan )
With you having the potentially good and newer stock 220 unit , with full lead lengths ? I presume.
I would initially solder tack install it in across the outside 100 ufd used for the clock supply line and see what it does for creating /upping / or / changing that voltage level . . . . . . . after initially seeing WHAT ? our present, supposedly, 1.5 VDC level is now being.
The next step after that, if therewith, having no splendid results, would be to un tack solder it and move it on down to the two black lead power input leads . . . observing proper polarity there and probably 1 extension wire needed.
That's then telling us, if the cap inside of the "warmish running" wall wart is going wankers .
It would also be helpful to now know what that voltage is being normally, and then, its pull down level when the gear train motor is running.
 
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Iguanaman

Oct 14, 2022
34
Joined
Oct 14, 2022
Messages
34
Three cheers for ye olde goode wyfe ! . . . . . ( my message . . . . to be forwarded on to her . . . . . from a loooong ta l l l l l l Texan )
With you having the potentially good and newer stock 220 unit , with full lead lengths ? I presume, I would initially solder tack install it in across the outside 100 for the clock supply line and see what it does for creating / changing that voltage level . . . . . . . after initially seeing WHAT ? our present, supposedly, 1.5 VDC level is now being.
The next step after that, if thereby, having no splendid results, would be to un tack solder it and move it on down to the two black lead power input leads . . . observing proper polarity.
That's then telling us, if the cap inside of the "warmish running" wall wart is going wankers .
It would also be helpful to know that voltage normally and then its pull down level when the gear motor is running.

I'm sorry but I don't understand where you want me to solder/tack a wire across.

I did remove the wall wart and inserted batteries in which case the clock started working again. I can simply allow it to run as long as possible via the batteries and see if it goes several days which might seem to point to the wall wart.
 
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