TV tube, hissing, fizzling crackling noise, arcing.

[half_pint]

I have a TV which has the above problem.
The picture and sound are fine, prefect however
I get the above noise from the back of the tube (sometimes).

The noise originates from where the big high tension cable
attaches to the tube, on the back near the top (not the
thin neck but the big dome 'bit'.

There is like a big round 'sucker' (plunger shaped thing)
where it atttaches to the tube, this has a lot of (well a fair bit of)
black 'dust' on. I can see some blue 'arcing' on the 'sucker type'
thing which the cable is attached too. this is where the niose comes from.

I only get this in hot weather I think, patricularly humid weather,
opening a window and letting cold air in seems to stop/reduce
the noise.

Any ideas, would brushing away the 'dust' help? (Actually
some of the dust seems to have been 'burnt away by the arcing).

Sorry if the techinical terms are not very technical, and spelling is
bad (in a hurry).

 

[David]

To fix it properly at this point, a NEW hv anode cap needs attached to the
wire, ALL the carbon trails need carefully cleaned off the glass, then the
new cap needs sealed to the tube using special hv corona dope or hv silicon.

David

 

[half_pint]

Thanks for that, it's an old TV and probably not worth spending
too much on (or electrocuting myself).
I am not too sure what cause the arcing as it seems to arcing to it
self, I am now thinking it is just acring into the damp air as it only
seems to happen on on hot humid summer days (we don't get much
of that in the UK) . Reading a bit about it it seems sharp edges will
make it worse so I assume cleaning off the black points carbon stuff
will help (tends to drop down into the rest of the TV though).

Actually thinking more about it it seems I have a mini thunder storm
going on.(except in reverse?).
Incidently we receently did have a lot of thunder locally (Nottingham UK).
apparently there were 7,000 strikes in the area, out of 10,000 in the
country.
So probably not worth doing any more than a good clean up of
the 'crap'.
Maybe my TV was responsible for the spate of thunder storms in
the area? (I best keep quite about that before insurance companies
start chasing me!!).
But thanks again, I have a better understanding of what is going on now.

To fix it properly at this point, a NEW hv anode cap needs attached to the
wire, ALL the carbon trails need carefully cleaned off the glass, then the
new cap needs sealed to the tube using special hv corona dope or hv silicon.

David

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

You should call in a professional TV tech to service this for you. The
anode cap, and anode area of the tube may need proper cleaning. The
anode connection from the wire to the contact under the anode-cup may
need to be re-spliced and soldered.

If the proper remidy does not work, it is possible the the tube may
have a problem, and is starting to have some type of problem. Problems
with the anode connection in the tube are very rare.

There is a lot of high voltage there, even when the set is shut off
and unplugged from the AC outlet. This is an extremely dangerous area
to mess with!

Get a TV tech in to fix this for you.

Jerry G.
========

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Thanks for that.
As I am basically a cautious coward I don't intend going near
it with except with a long plastic or wooden handeled impliment.

The TV cost about £200 when I bought it well over 5 year ago
so I doubt calling out a TV tech would be cost effective.

However having said that my father brought in a similar aged
but more expensive TV in for repair, the picture was bigger
than the screen so to speak, and wider at the top and bottom.
It was clearly more noticable when you used teletext but
on a normal broadcast you would hardly notice it unless
there was important info (text etc..) at the corners of the screen.
Actually these pseudo widescreen broadcasts probably looked
aweful on it (well more aweful than usual (widescreen is my
pet hate)). By aweful I mean shit (in the US doesn't aweful mean
good?). Actually it was probably the WS broadcasts which
caused him to get it repaired.
Anyway the repair man did a great job for £50 and the pic is
perfect now, as good as new.

The problem only occurs on very humid days so I can live with
it, as that is only a handful of days a year.

The problem with ignoring it is that there may come a final arc-snap
and then the set will be dead. I would recommend cleaning at least.

See the FAQs for SAFETY info.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[half_pint]

Thanks for that.
As I am basically a cautious coward I don't intend going near
it with except with a long plastic or wooden handeled impliment.

The TV cost about £200 when I bought it well over 5 year ago
so I doubt calling out a TV tech would be cost effective.

However having said that my father brought in a similar aged
but more expensive TV in for repair, the picture was bigger
than the screen so to speak, and wider at the top and bottom.
It was clearly more noticable when you used teletext but
on a normal broadcast you would hardly notice it unless
there was important info (text etc..) at the corners of the screen.
Actually these pseudo widescreen broadcasts probably looked
aweful on it (well more aweful than usual (widescreen is my
pet hate)). By aweful I mean shit (in the US doesn't aweful mean
good?). Actually it was probably the WS broadcasts which
caused him to get it repaired.
Anyway the repair man did a great job for £50 and the pic is
perfect now, as good as new.

The problem only occurs on very humid days so I can live with
it, as that is only a handful of days a year.

I am actually qualified in electronics, althoug I have no real practical
experience of repairs and I am fairly convinced it is not a major problem.

Acually the electrical arcing is quite pretty to watch if you turn the
lights off, its often a better show than the stuff on the other side
of the tube, especially if it is widescreen!!!!!!!

What do you guys think of WS anyway? I think it is shite and a step
backwards (I can scientifically prove it is a poorer format!), mind you
I expect it keeps you guys who work in the industry in a job, so unbiased
opinons are perhaps unlikey!!!.

cheeers 1/2 pint.

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

Well I plan doing that although if all the black stuff is conducting I might

end up doing more damage than good unless i am careful.

The voltages that run a picture tube is typically at the kilovolt range. On
average, a tube requires around 25,000 to 30,000 volts to power it, and that
voltage is generated by the flyback transformer.
Remember, electrical transformers can be made to step up or step down
electrical voltage. Flyback transformers are designed to upstep power up to
several thousand volts to properly drive a cathode ray picture tube.

Anyways, with that much voltage is a lot of potential for arcing to the nearest
ground, so proper and effective insulation for the anode cap, flyback line, and
flyback casing is essential. If the insulation is faulty or substandard, then
you will have an arc problem during operation. The final arc-snap that's
mentioned happens when the final arc uses the air as a bridge to ground through
the insulation towards a critical part on any of the circuit boards, destroying
it and causing more damage to the TV, possibly disabling it completely and
creating a new problem in the process.

If you've wondered why the inside of a picture tube must be a perfect vaccum,
this is why. Any air that's inside the picture tube will act as a bridge for
high voltage electricity and will make the anode feed arc to the nearest ground
inside the picture tube instead of properly powering it.

This kind of problem really requires proper servicing to correct it reliably
and safely.
The set should not be used ever again until the problem is corrected. -
Reinhart

 

[half_pint]

The problem with ignoring it is that there may come a final arc-snap
and then the set will be dead. I would recommend cleaning at least.

Well I plan doing that although if all the black stuff is conducting I might
end up doing more damage than good unless i am careful.
I doubt it will every arc enough to do any real damage though, and it
was quite a sight to see. Unfortunately the weather is dryer now and the
show is probably over untill next year.

I will have to make do with 'Big Brother' and the like untill them :O|

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

Well I plan doing that although if all the black stuff is conducting I might
end up doing more damage than good unless i am careful.
I doubt it will every arc enough to do any real damage though, and it
was quite a sight to see. Unfortunately the weather is dryer now and the
show is probably over untill next year.

I will have to make do with 'Big Brother' and the like untill them :O|

If you are referring to the HV connector to the CRT (the thing that looks
like a suction cup), there should be an area immediately surrounding it
and under it that is not coated with anything - just glass. It should
be clean. DON'T attempt to scrape the coating further away off the
tube - that's needed!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[Asimov]

"Jason D." bravely wrote to "All" (26 Jul 04 06:09:35)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: TV tube, hissing, fizzling crackling noise,
arcing."

JD> From: [email protected] (Jason D.)

JD> On 25 Jul 2004 04:18:56 GMT, [email protected] (LASERandDVDfan)

JD> Huh uh, no no...See what others has explained and one thing they
JD> didn't bother to say that I'm adding to this. More on this below.

The voltages that run a picture tube is typically at the kilovolt range. On
average, a tube requires around 25,000 to 30,000 volts to power it, and that
voltage is generated by the flyback transformer.
Remember, electrical transformers can be made to step up or step down
electrical voltage. Flyback transformers are designed to upstep power up to
several thousand volts to properly drive a cathode ray picture tube.

Anyways, with that much voltage is a lot of potential for arcing to the nearest
ground, so proper and effective insulation for the anode cap, flyback line, and
flyback casing is essential. If the insulation is faulty or substandard, then
you will have an arc problem during operation. The final arc-snap that's
mentioned happens when the final arc uses the air as a bridge to ground through
the insulation towards a critical part on any of the circuit boards, destroying
it and causing more damage to the TV, possibly disabling it completely and
creating a new problem in the process.

If you've wondered why the inside of a picture tube must be a perfect vaccum,
this is why. Any air that's inside the picture tube will act as a bridge for
high voltage electricity and will make the anode feed arc to the nearest ground
inside the picture tube instead of properly powering it.

This kind of problem really requires proper servicing to correct it reliably
and safely.
The set should not be used ever again until the problem is corrected. -
Reinhart

JD> Right.

JD> The thing they didn't tell you over time with arcing and hissing, etc.
JD> The arc is very hot temps (this reason arcs looks bluish molecules it
JD> get excited are is very HOT to glow blue) and will carbonize the paths
JD> arc takes and will finally stay this way (snap snap snap! Pow! POP! TV
JD> dies.) and may take a part out or overload the flyback and kill it or
JD> burn out the HOT. Seen this happen *many* times. Often the final
JD> kill happened so fast that you hardly blink and utter "huh?".

JD> Get it fixed while it's good!


I second that. Just wanted to add that the blue arcs produce ozone,
which is a molecular form of oxygen containing 3 atoms instead of the
usual 2. The extra oxygen atom causes the molecule to be unstable and
the ozone gas very reactive. Ozone is thus extremely corrosive, and
damaging to organic things, i.e. plastic insulation. When inhaled
ozone is extrememly damaging to the lungs by directly attacking the
thin lining of the tiny sacs where air is exchanged with the blood.
Ozone is associated with the electric smell that is sometimes noticed
when a thunderstorm comes or in electrical sparking. In summary,
operating a defective TV which generates ozone into the atmosphere of
an enclosed room is not a very wise decision.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... You mean 15" sparks are SUPPOSED to come out of this thing?!?

 

[James Sweet]

I have a TV which has the above problem.
The picture and sound are fine, prefect however
I get the above noise from the back of the tube (sometimes).

The noise originates from where the big high tension cable
attaches to the tube, on the back near the top (not the
thin neck but the big dome 'bit'.

There is like a big round 'sucker' (plunger shaped thing)
where it atttaches to the tube, this has a lot of (well a fair bit of)
black 'dust' on. I can see some blue 'arcing' on the 'sucker type'
thing which the cable is attached too. this is where the niose comes from.

That's fairly common, you need to remove the anode cap (the suction cup
thing) clean the tube well, then smear the rubber with some dielectric
grease you can get at any autoparts store. You need to discharge the tube
first, just connect a wire to a screwdriver, and connect the other end to
the metal ground strap around the back of the tube then poke the screwdriver
under the cap, you might hear a small static electricity zap, then pull up
the lip of the suction cup and you'll see how to disconnect it. Discharge
the little button where it plugs in any time before you touch it as it'll
sometimes build up a bit of residiual charge.

 

[half_pint]

I second that. Just wanted to add that the blue arcs produce ozone,
which is a molecular form of oxygen containing 3 atoms instead of the
usual 2. The extra oxygen atom causes the molecule to be unstable and
the ozone gas very reactive. Ozone is thus extremely corrosive, and
damaging to organic things, i.e. plastic insulation. When inhaled
ozone is extrememly damaging to the lungs by directly attacking the
thin lining of the tiny sacs where air is exchanged with the blood.
Ozone is associated with the electric smell that is sometimes noticed
when a thunderstorm comes or in electrical sparking. In summary,
operating a defective TV which generates ozone into the atmosphere of
an enclosed room is not a very wise decision.

Well that may be a more compelling reason to get it fixed, or
dump it and get a new one. I doubt it is cost effective to have
someone repair it.
I would probably have replacedit were it not for the fact that
the shops I visited contained almost exclusively widescreen
sets (Which I detest). Maybe I will go for a large second
hand standard 'proper' TV.
Actually though something does appear to have affected the
inside of the plastic back casing of the TV making it sticky
particularly around the area near the anode cap. I presume
this has been caused by ozone.
I took the back off to let more air get in, I think maybe I should
put it back on tho keep the ozone in.
Anyway humidity is 82% at the moment and the tude is fizzling
away quite merrily.(sounds like there is a wasp in there!!).
Also as I smoke 20 a day maybe all that tar will protect my
lungs from the ozone? Smoking may also have something to
do with the black sticky stuff on the plastic, or it may be
plastic attacked by ozone. I wouldn't say I can particularly
smell ozone in the room, certaintly not as much as during
a thundersorm anyway but it is more of a concern than my
TV packing up anyway.

However I will have a go at cleaming the cap up a bit when
I am feeking braver, apparently the voltages are less dangerous
than they sound but I will not be taking any chances.
Apparently a bit of insulating tape might come in handy.
Beats me why these caps are metal anyway, I assume they are,
it would seem to be more sennsible to make them plactic coated.

Also is the back of the tube glass or metalic? I assume it is
glass but I and not 100%

Actually the noise has been a bit louder, and I checked
the humidity, its up to 88%.

Actually the noise was beginning to annoy me so I through
caution to the wind and stuck a couple layers of
sticky insulating tape over the offending area, result:- silence.
Or near silence anyway, I will do a proper clean up on it
tomorrow.

Well that has saved me £50 for the time being anyway,
humidity still 88%.

 

[half_pint]

That's fairly common, you need to remove the anode cap

How do I do that? Just pull it off?
Is it rubber or metal, I thought it was metal, maybe it
is rubber, (rubber sounds more sensible.

(the suction cup
thing) clean the tube well, then smear the rubber with some dielectric
grease you can get at any autoparts store. You need to discharge the tube
first, just connect a wire to a screwdriver, and connect the other end to
the metal ground strap around the back of the tube

I am not sure I can find an obvious ground, there is very little metal
visable.
The four corners where the tube attatches to the case seem to have wires
attatched to then, I assume these would be earth?
There is very little other metal to be seem.

then poke the screwdriver
under the cap, you might hear a small static electricity zap, then pull up
the lip of the suction cup and you'll see how to disconnect it. Discharge
the little button where it plugs in any time before you touch it as it'll
sometimes build up a bit of residiual charge.

I have done a tempory job with some sticky insulation tape,
taking care not to touch anything ht. I will try a doing
a proper job later.


Thanks.

 

[James Sweet]

How do I do that? Just pull it off?
Is it rubber or metal, I thought it was metal, maybe it
is rubber, (rubber sounds more sensible.

It's rubber, underneath is a metal clip that clips into a little metal pot
cast in the glass of the tube. Once you lift the edge it'll be obvious how
to remove it.

I am not sure I can find an obvious ground, there is very little metal
visable.
The four corners where the tube attatches to the case seem to have wires
attatched to then, I assume these would be earth?
There is very little other metal to be seem.

The back of the tube is coated with a dark gray conductive coating, there
should be some sort of ground contact that connects to that, often there's a
metal strap around the back of the tube.

 

[half_pint]

It's rubber,

So it *should* be safe to touch???????
The 'light show' is on the outside of this rubber cap (iits all covered
in black dust though).

I am a little puzzeled, if the tube is earthed, and the outside of the
cap is high tension.........if the two meet.....boom..(or zap).
Is this the final arc zap mentioned earlier in the thread?

And why is the outside of the cap high tension, is it because of the
black stuff or is the cap perished?


I think I assumed (wrongly) the outside of the cap was ment to be HT.

I am a little more worried now.

underneath is a metal clip that clips into a little metal pot
cast in the glass of the tube. Once you lift the edge it'll be obvious how
to remove it.



The back of the tube is coated with a dark gray conductive coating, there
should be some sort of ground contact that connects to that, often there's a
metal strap around the back of the tube.

Yes I can see a braided metal strap held round the tube by wires which
appear to connecte to the afore mentioned corners, it helped when I
used a decent light to see with.Thanks again

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

So it *should* be safe to touch???????

In principle the rubber cap should be safe to touch but as you have
observed, with all the dust, there is high voltage on it!

The 'light show' is on the outside of this rubber cap (iits all covered
in black dust though).

That should not be there.

I am a little puzzeled, if the tube is earthed, and the outside of the
cap is high tension.........if the two meet.....boom..(or zap).
Is this the final arc zap mentioned earlier in the thread?

Yes.

And why is the outside of the cap high tension, is it because of the
black stuff or is the cap perished?

Because it is contaminated underneath as well.

I think I assumed (wrongly) the outside of the cap was ment to be HT.
Nope.

I am a little more worried now.

No need to be worried, but you should do as has been suggested here
and not use the TV until then.

If you have any doubts about your ability to do it, then have a repair
shop clean it. Shouldn't be expensive now. Only if you wait for the
final ZAP!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[half_pint]

Thanks I think I am beginning to understand things a lot more
clearly now.

I noticed there was another bigger concentric circle on the tube
bigger than the cap (it looked to me like a bigger cap
had been used in the past and that it had left a cleaner
circular region when it was removed). I now realise (assuming
I am correct) that this is a region which is not painted with a conductive
coating (at ground porential) to reduce the chances of a nasty
arc from HT to ground. (I will sleep a lot better now).
It is covered in dirt so I will give it a good clean (one of the
jobs I am putting of untill tomorrow (I have a long list of them )).

Thanks a lot, it has been a bit of an education for me!!

I doubt I will do a professional job though, just enough to
feel safe, well at least not untill I can get my hands
on the correct 'stuff'.
I will probably be getting a new main TV set soon anyway.

cheers half_pint

 

[half_pint]

In principle the rubber cap should be safe to touch but as you have
observed, with all the dust, there is high voltage on it!


That should not be there.


Yes.


Because it is contaminated underneath as well.

I am not too sure where the ht on the cap comes from.

No need to be worried, but you should do as has been suggested here
and not use the TV until then.

What no TV!!!!

If you have any doubts about your ability to do it, then have a repair
shop clean it. Shouldn't be expensive now. Only if you wait for the
final ZAP!

I had been meaning to replace the TV with a bigger one and use it
as a spare portable.

If it does go pop I would perfer to spend any repair money on a
new portable (I can get one for less than £60) and buy a new main
set too. This set also has a few other niggling problems.
It sometimes needs tuning adjusting when I switch channels, particularly
when its temperature is changing, and the remote has a dodgy button
plus the battery connections are dodgy, great picture apart from that
though. Although the black bar at the top on pseudo widescreen
broadcasts does appear slightly larger on one side. I believe
twisting some coils somewhere might fix that but I am not sure
if I am up to doing that.

I will not leave it on unattended though.

Mind you, I can only put it on standby, unless I unplug it and
lose all the stations. The on-off switch on the main set doesnt
appear to work! (nasty combination eh?). I think standby
switches off the HT though so I should be ok.

thanks anyway.

 

[Asimov]

"half_pint" bravely wrote to "All" (25 Jul 04 20:29:45)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: TV tube, hissing, fizzling crackling noise,
arcing."

ha> From: "half_pint" <[email protected]>
ha> Actually though something does appear to have affected the
ha> inside of the plastic back casing of the TV making it sticky
ha> particularly around the area near the anode cap. I presume
ha> this has been caused by ozone.
ha> I took the back off to let more air get in, I think maybe I should
ha> put it back on tho keep the ozone in.
ha> Anyway humidity is 82% at the moment and the tude is fizzling
ha> away quite merrily.(sounds like there is a wasp in there!!).
ha> Also as I smoke 20 a day maybe all that tar will protect my
ha> lungs from the ozone? Smoking may also have something to
ha> do with the black sticky stuff on the plastic, or it may be
ha> plastic attacked by ozone. I wouldn't say I can particularly
ha> smell ozone in the room, certaintly not as much as during
ha> a thundersorm anyway but it is more of a concern than my
ha> TV packing up anyway.

I agree. I don't think you can smell ozone if you smoke 20 coffin
nails a day. I also agree the goo inside you TV is very likely tar.
The oily combustion products from the burning tobacco tend to condense
on every surface they land on. It gives everything in the room a nice
yellow film just like on your fingers.

If I bring say a clock radio from your room into a non-smoker's house
it will reek of tobacco smell to them for months. You don't even
notice it because you are desensitized in being saturated by it 24/7.
But it's a longshot that the tar in your lungs acts as a protection
against ozone. Don't count on it.

I smoked 2 packs a day for over 20 years but finally gave it up after
discovering a couple of shadows in my lung xrays. It has now been over
20 years since I last smoked and a clean bill of health. It wasn't as
hard to quit as my smoker friends made it seem.


ha> However I will have a go at cleaming the cap up a bit when
ha> I am feeking braver, apparently the voltages are less dangerous
ha> than they sound but I will not be taking any chances.
ha> Apparently a bit of insulating tape might come in handy.
ha> Beats me why these caps are metal anyway, I assume they are,
ha> it would seem to be more sennsible to make them plactic coated.

ha> Also is the back of the tube glass or metalic? I assume it is
ha> glass but I and not 100%

ha> Actually the noise has been a bit louder, and I checked
ha> the humidity, its up to 88%.

ha> Actually the noise was beginning to annoy me so I through
ha> caution to the wind and stuck a couple layers of
ha> sticky insulating tape over the offending area, result:- silence.
ha> Or near silence anyway, I will do a proper clean up on it
ha> tomorrow.

ha> Well that has saved me #50 for the time being anyway,
ha> humidity still 88%.

Alcohol is a good cleaning solution for this purpose. Try and get the
99% variety at the pharmacy. After the glass and cup are clean,
inspect the HV cup for damage such as carbonization. Any trace of a
track means it should be replaced. Then smear HV dielectric or spark
plug grease all over the inside of the cup before reconnecting it to
the CRT dimple. This will keep the air from getting under the cap and
causing short circuiting to ground. Some folk use hv rtv, or ordinary
car axle grease or engine oil but all that just seems too messy.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... High Voltage Electronics: Life's a glitch, then you fry.

 

[Jason D.]

Huh uh, no no...See what others has explained and one thing they
didn't bother to say that I'm adding to this. More on this below.

The voltages that run a picture tube is typically at the kilovolt range. On
average, a tube requires around 25,000 to 30,000 volts to power it, and that
voltage is generated by the flyback transformer.
Remember, electrical transformers can be made to step up or step down
electrical voltage. Flyback transformers are designed to upstep power up to
several thousand volts to properly drive a cathode ray picture tube.

Anyways, with that much voltage is a lot of potential for arcing to the nearest
ground, so proper and effective insulation for the anode cap, flyback line, and
flyback casing is essential. If the insulation is faulty or substandard, then
you will have an arc problem during operation. The final arc-snap that's
mentioned happens when the final arc uses the air as a bridge to ground through
the insulation towards a critical part on any of the circuit boards, destroying
it and causing more damage to the TV, possibly disabling it completely and
creating a new problem in the process.

If you've wondered why the inside of a picture tube must be a perfect vaccum,
this is why. Any air that's inside the picture tube will act as a bridge for
high voltage electricity and will make the anode feed arc to the nearest ground
inside the picture tube instead of properly powering it.

This kind of problem really requires proper servicing to correct it reliably
and safely.
The set should not be used ever again until the problem is corrected. -
Reinhart

Right.

The thing they didn't tell you over time with arcing and hissing, etc.
The arc is very hot temps (this reason arcs looks bluish molecules it
get excited are is very HOT to glow blue) and will carbonize the paths
arc takes and will finally stay this way (snap snap snap! Pow! POP! TV
dies.) and may take a part out or overload the flyback and kill it or
burn out the HOT. Seen this happen *many* times. Often the final
kill happened so fast that you hardly blink and utter "huh?".

Get it fixed while it's good!

Cheers,

Wizard