White ink , fine tip, felt-tip pen ?

N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
For permanent marking missing legends or other added comments to black cased
ICs.
Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something
thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with
black plastic.

M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
N said:
For permanent marking missing legends or other added comments to black cased
ICs.
Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something
thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with
black plastic.

I used to use a large sewing needle and one of those tiny bottles of
model paint. i could write, if I took the time, or just color code the
parts. I had a couple dozen bottles I bought for 10 cents each, in red
and silver. Everything else was gone by the time I got there.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

B

bz

Jan 1, 1970
0
I used to use a large sewing needle and one of those tiny bottles of
model paint. i could write, if I took the time, or just color code the
parts. I had a couple dozen bottles I bought for 10 cents each, in red
and silver. Everything else was gone by the time I got there.

Fingernail polish comes with built in brush. Lots of different colors
available now days.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

[email protected] remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
bz said:
Fingernail polish comes with built in brush. Lots of different colors
available now days.

The brush is too wide to write on ICs with.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

H

Homer J Simpson

Jan 1, 1970
0
cased
ICs.
Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something
thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with
black plastic.

Try electrical suppliers. They used to have a type with white paint/ink and
a roller ball tip.

R

Rick

Jan 1, 1970
0
N said:
For permanent marking missing legends or other added comments to black cased
ICs.
Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something
thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with
black plastic.

They exist. I even have white artists pencils. Check art supply stores -
not office supply stores. IIRC you are looking for something used to
retouch blue prints.

Rick

B

Bob AZ

Jan 1, 1970
0
Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something
thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with
black plastic.

In the states I go to Michaels. An Art and Craft store. At least a
dozen colors and that many types.

Bob AZ

M

mike

Jan 1, 1970
0
Homer said:
Try electrical suppliers. They used to have a type with white paint/ink and
a roller ball tip.
I've had absolutely horrible results with the white roller-ball markers.
I always got a wide smear of paint with a ball track down the center.
But you can find silver felt markers that are much easier to use and
don't dry up and quit working after the first time you use 'em.

N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Homer J Simpson said:
Try electrical suppliers. They used to have a type with white paint/ink and
a roller ball tip.

What is it used for by electricians ? so I don't seem too much of a
numb-skull when I enquire

N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
mike said:
I've had absolutely horrible results with the white roller-ball markers.
I always got a wide smear of paint with a ball track down the center.
But you can find silver felt markers that are much easier to use and
don't dry up and quit working after the first time you use 'em.

Would the silver ones be in arts and crafts?
The last time I was in a large hobbycraft shop I did not find anything
suitable in the way of fine felt pens. I assumed somewhere there was
something better than my usual toothpick dipped in typing correction fluid

B

bz

Jan 1, 1970
0
The brush is too wide to write on ICs with.

Depends on how you trim it.
And it IS fine for color coding.

By the way. Those colors are handy for marking 'look alike' parts when you
are building a kit. That way, you do not need to unsolder the capacitors
to find where you swapped a .01 and a .001.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

[email protected] remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

R

RBJ

Jan 1, 1970
0
They exist indeed.
I have different colors like > white,gold,silver,whiteblue etc.
The pen has an liquid-ink inside and are supplied through a very thin tube
(aprox. 0.3mm) with a thin rod sticking out about 0.5mm at the tip which
lift the valve inside.
They write very clean/nice and permanent.
I bought them in Germany on my holiday.

M

Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
bz said:
Depends on how you trim it.
And it IS fine for color coding.

That was what I used red model paint for. I repaired Commodore 64
computers to the component level when they first came out. I built a
test bed with ZIF sockets to test suspect ICs. Good chips got a dot of
paint by pin one. Some of the parts already had yellow or green dots,
so I used the red paint I already had. A guy in the Orlando Commodore
computer club asked me for an estimate to repair his computer.

It was about fifty dollars. He was yelling that I was trying to rip
him off, and to bring it to him at the next meeting, even though
everyone else charged $75 or more to even look at one, and usually exchanged the board with a factory rebuild. He went though his rants again, then left. The next week he was back, screaming, "I replaced all the chips you marked bad, and it still doesn't work! You don't know what the hell you're doing!" I smiled, and about half the other members did, as well. I told him that I marked GOOD parts, not the bad ones. He started swearing and screaming that I had to use green paint to mark good parts. I told him I preferred red, and it was obvious that he was a thief, and had never intended to let me repair it in the first place. He never came back. By the way. Those colors are handy for marking 'look alike' parts when you are building a kit. That way, you do not need to unsolder the capacitors to find where you swapped a .01 and a .001. I've never had that problem, in 45+ years of building electronics. When building a kit, I always sorted the parts as I unpacked them, to make sure everything was there. -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida H Homer J Simpson Jan 1, 1970 0 RBJ said: They exist indeed. I have different colors like > white,gold,silver,whiteblue etc. The pen has an liquid-ink inside and are supplied through a very thin tube (aprox. 0.3mm) with a thin rod sticking out about 0.5mm at the tip which lift the valve inside. They write very clean/nice and permanent. I bought them in Germany on my holiday. We used similar pens for drafting back in the days before computers. Of course we only used black ink. H Homer J Simpson Jan 1, 1970 0 What is it used for by electricians ? so I don't seem too much of a numb-skull when I enquire We used to use them to label switchboards when they were made out of composite material (like industrial Arborite). S Smitty Two Jan 1, 1970 0 N Cook said: For permanent marking missing legends or other added comments to black cased ICs. Do they exist?, not necessarily Staedler or even white , just something thats not dark red,green,black or blue, that stays on and contrasts with black plastic. The ubiquitous Sharpie brand felt tip pen comes in quite a few colors, including one called "almond" which is pretty light. http://www.sharpie.com/enUS/Product/Sharpie_Ultra_Fine_Point_Permanent_Ma rker.html M Michael Kennedy Jan 1, 1970 0 Homer J Simpson said: We used similar pens for drafting back in the days before computers. Of course we only used black ink. You could try one of those White-Out pens that they sell at office supply stores. I don't know if the point would be sharp enough though. - Mike R Rick Jan 1, 1970 0 N said: Would the silver ones be in arts and crafts? The last time I was in a large hobbycraft shop I did not find anything suitable in the way of fine felt pens. I assumed somewhere there was something better than my usual toothpick dipped in typing correction fluid Art supply stores. The kind that college art students, professional artists and architects get supplies at. Not the current spate of chain hobby stores "specializing" in silk floral arrangements and paint your own t-shirt junk. Rick B bz Jan 1, 1970 0 That was what I used red model paint for. I repaired Commodore 64 computers to the component level when they first came out. I built a test bed with ZIF sockets to test suspect ICs. Good chips got a dot of paint by pin one. Some of the parts already had yellow or green dots, so I used the red paint I already had. A guy in the Orlando Commodore computer club asked me for an estimate to repair his computer. It was about fifty dollars. He was yelling that I was trying to rip him off, and to bring it to him at the next meeting, even though everyone else charged$75 or more to even look at one, and usually
exchanged the board with a factory rebuild. He went though his rants
again, then left.

The next week he was back, screaming, "I replaced all the chips you
marked bad, and it still doesn't work! You don't know what the hell
you're doing!" I smiled, and about half the other members did, as
well. I told him that I marked GOOD parts, not the bad ones. He
started swearing and screaming that I had to use green paint to mark
good parts. I told him I preferred red, and it was obvious that he was
a thief, and had never intended to let me repair it in the first place.
He never came back.

I've never had that problem, in 45+ years of building electronics.
When building a kit, I always sorted the parts as I unpacked them, to
make sure everything was there.

Of course one should do that. However, when building a complex kit with
lots of 'look alike parts', even the most careful person may work a couple
of minutes past 'too tired', and grab the wrong part for a particular
location. Later, one notices that one is 'short' a particular value part
and realizes that one must have already used it in a wrong place. Fun to
try to find without color coding.

Color coding the parts once they are sorted gives one
a) the chance to double check the sorting.
b) a way, later, to double check the placement against the layout diagram.
c) comes in handy when, for example, your Elecraft K2 transciever shows a
strange spurious response on a particular band because you interchanged
two bypass capacitors.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

[email protected] remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

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