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Wiring a Crow Genius 10 PIR

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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I am trying to add a recently purchased Genius 10 PIR to my existing alarm system (Napco GEM-P800 with Gemini RP8 keypads). I have an open zone available, but no wiring instructions for the PIR. The PIR has 7 wire terminals labeled as such:
1) -
2) +
3) & 4) TAMP
5) C
6) NC
7) 3K9
I understand two wires are for the power. What about the other connections? The magnetic switches are NC, so I am assuming a wire has to connect to the NC terminal. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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Hi Johnny,

Welcome to the world of alarm electronics. I'm going to get to the wire connections in a minute but first I want to warn you that the alarm industry evolved its own nomenclature a few decades ago and what alarm manufaturers call "Normally Closed" (NC) and "Normally Open" (NO) is exactly opposite what the rest of the electronic industry calls them. The "NC" mag switches you have are what most electronics people call NO switches, i.e., they're normally open; and are closed by a sufficiently strong magnetic field.

So before you start, take an ohmmeter and check the C (common) and NC (Normally Closed) terminals on the PIR (unpowered) and notice that the loop (zone) relay contacts are Open, because in alarm industry terminology, the "normal" state is the state of the relay when it's operating, i.e., in a powered-up state. As I said, exactly the opposite of the rest of the electronics industry.

Now that I've hopefully stopped any potential confusion about how the PIR's C-NC terminals, the zone loop/circuit goes through the relay contacts, i.e., through C and NC, but there has to be an End-Of-Line Resistor (EOLR) in series in the loop (alarm jargon for "zone circiut'). Your panel should have 2 EORL's for each set of zone terminals in the control, 2.2Kohm for the primary zones and 3.9K for the secondary zones.

I'm assuming you understand this if you have the zone ready, but if you don't, just let me know and we'll walk through it. I'm also assuming you have the installation and programming manual and have programmed the zone as interior instant or follower, whichever is appropriate. If not, let me know.

The "3K9" terminal might be an unconnected terminal point to connect one loop wire and one end of your EOLR, but I don't have the cutsheet for that model either, so try this: Connect the end of one zone/loop wire and one end of whichever EOLR you're using (depending on which zone you're using) into the "3K9" terminal. Connect the other end of the EOLR into NC, the closest relay terminal. Connect the other zone/loop wire into the C terminal. When the PIR is powered up and nobody's triggering it, the loop wires at the GEM control panel should read whatever the value of the EOLR is. They're ready to connect to the zone.

If I was wrong about that "3K9" terminal, just forget about it and solder that loop wire to one end of the resistor and connect the resistor's other end to NC.

As for the "Tamp" (Tamper) terminals, that's mostly for commercial applications and can be disregarded unless you really want to get into it.

I know alarm wiring can take getting used to, even for an electronics hobbyist, so if I've left some confusion here, let me know and I'll try to clean it up.
 
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Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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Thanks for the info. After I posted, I realized that the C was the common and I also picked up on the "3K9" term by reading other posts. I also picked up that it should have it's own zone. I wired it up this afternoon (not the tamper switch) and it works. I am guessing that the tamper switch would be tied into another zone that is not an entry/delay zone.The only "complaint" I have is that the panel chimes every time the motion detector picks up motion - I'm guessing this can be silenced by reprogramming. Since the motion detector is in my workshop, I am working around this by bypassing the zone while in the shop. This is an existing system and I don't have any knowledge or equipment for making programming changes, so this may have to be a permanent work around. Thanks again.

Johnny
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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If that zone chimes, then it's programmed as a perimeter zone. That means you can't arm the system while you're home without setting it off when you walk into its field of view.

If you like, I can walk you through reprogramming the zone. That is, if you have the installer code to get into programming. I haven't worked with a GEM-P800 before, but it can't be any harder than the GEM-1632.
 

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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This system was originally installed through the building contractor a few years ago, so the alarm panel was already programmed as it is now. I had this zone left open for when I added the workshop. If you are talking about the master access code used at the keypad, then I have it. I have used it for reprogramming the User codes. If you are talking about something for the alarm panel, then I don't have it.
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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Yeah, the Installer Code for panel programming is a different code and what you'd need to program the zone as an interior zone, or possibly interior follower (time delay if entry/exit door is opened first). It's possible that the installer left the factory default installer code in place.

If you're interested in reprogramming that zone, I can PM you a URL where you can access a free download of the GEM-P800 Installation manual. This is something I'd rather not post on the public forum.

The default installer/dealer code and how to enter and exit programming is on the first page. Let me know if you're interested.
 

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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Yes. Thank you, I am interested in at least trying to reprogram the zone. I had downloaded the instruction manual already. I see that it does reference a programming instruction manual, but I couldn't locate it. I really appreciate your help with this.
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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Hmmm...I may have sent you the URL for the installation manual by mistake. I'm PMing you the URL for the programming manual now. I checked it this time to be sure.
 

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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I'm sorry. I received one PM from you, but I didn't see a URL or an attachment. This site wouldn't let me respond to you directly being a new user. I did try the Napco "Dealer support docs", but I need a password to be established.
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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Okay, have to remember they may be using a filter. Sensible precaution to hold the spamming down. I'll try to PM again with a different tack that doesn't involve posting a URL.
 

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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Okay. I've confirmed that I can enter/exit programming mode. The shop door is now wired to the entry/exit zone and a keypad is near the door. I believe that the shop's motion sensor needs to be programmed as entry/exit follower zone. Is that correct? Also, is this the setting that silences the keypad chime every time the PIR red light flashes?
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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That's correct on all counts. The e/e follower is an internal zone and the chime responds to perimeter zones.

Go ahead and follow the programming instructions carefully. If you have a question, I'll probably have to go study the manual myself. To be honest, I haven't programmed a Napco in over 5 years, so I don't have it right on top of my head.

Let me know how it goes.
 

Johnny

Jul 2, 2010
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All went well. I found that the programming manual wasn't 100% correct or complete, but nothing that I couldn't figure out. Being new to this, I found the safest procedure was to verify how each of the programmed settings was set BEFORE I made my adjustment. That took about 30 seconds and gave me a "default" setting if I messed up. Again, I really appreciate your assistance with this.
 

ChosunOne

Jun 20, 2010
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All went well. I found that the programming manual wasn't 100% correct or complete, but nothing that I couldn't figure out.

I haven't kept up with Napco's newer panels, but it's possible that the manual is correct and complete and you're working with a later revision. Also, Napco programming is not really DIY-friendly. The instructions are not linear, and the "incompleteness" you experienced may well have been "placement" of critical information: Sometimes a programming change requires entries in several widely separated data fields, and when you find one, there's nothing in the manual that mentions the others need to be changed too. Basically, you sometimes have to go over the entire manual line-by-line to ensure you made all the entries you need to.

Napco's a good panel for pro's who work with it all the time and are used to it, but as I said, it's not DIY-friendly for someone just starting the learning curve.

If you ever have occasion to buy another alarm system, I recommend Ademco/Honeywell. It's far and away more DIY-friendly and they have a record for making new panels and keypads back-compatible.

Anyway, glad you were able to get everything working and glad I was able to help.
 
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