Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Wiring DPST illuminated switch

dataworx

Feb 19, 2016
17
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
17
Please help this noob - I'm fairly handy with general electrical and very basic electronics, but I'd really appreciate some assistance before I liberate the magic smoke.

I want to wire the B16925A switch as per the link below, but I don't understand the diagram.

http://www.mantech.co.za/datasheets/products/ME249-017.pdf

Using my DMM I get continuity between 2 &4 and 1&3 when the switch is depressed. I assume then that I should wire as follows:

Live in to #1
Neutral in to #2
Live out from #3
Neutral out from #4

Can someone on the forum please confirm this?
 

dataworx

Feb 19, 2016
17
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
17
Not sure how to edit my original post, but here is the correction - I initially identified the terminals incorrectly, the post should read as follows:

Using my DMM I get continuity between 1&2 and 3&4 when the switch is depressed. I assume then that I should wire as follows:

Live in to #1
Neutral in to #3
Live out from #2
Neutral out from #4
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,366
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,366
.


Sir dataworx . . . . . . . . . . . .

Tsk . . .tsk . .tsk . . .One dinky little drawing from their catalog page , not even identifying the 4 terminal connections, but they sure wanted you to know the hole sizes .

If you are wanting use of the switch for AC power switching of both legs . . .seems like the unit would blow up the resistor and LED on power up. the way they show the innards of the unit in their mini GREEN box illustration.

Now . . . Its possible internal interpretation in the large GREEN box.

If this were to be used for ~ 12VDC switching all would be fine, put 12VDC in to 1 and 3 would be the negative teminal.
Press the pushbutton and gold BUSS bar A moves down to short out from terminals 3 to 4.
Simultaneously the mechanically linking to gold BUSS bar B moves down to short out from terminals 1 to 2.
This lets 12VDC power flow through the switch and the LED also lights up.

YOUR SITUATION:
WITH the AC power switching situation , on power up FULL AC is then being applied across the series resistor and LED.
I could only see that situation, with the use of a NE-2 NEON lamp and high voltage dropping resistor, being used instead of the LED and its droppig resistor.

However, a LED circuit variant would be the use of a series diode to only get the positive AC nodes passing and a high 6K / 120 VAC . . . . .12K 240 VAC dropping resistor and a zener a bit higher than the junction voltage of the LED as a safety voltage snubber.

NOW, to see what you REALLY have there, take a 9 VDC battery and have an unwired switch and press the button to mechanically latch the switch on.
Then you connect battery positive to pin 1 or 2 and and the battery negative to pin 3 or 4 and see if you then have a lit LED.
Then, press to release the mechanically latched switch and confirm that the LED goes off.

Now if you were to switch ONLY one leg of the AC line down at 1 and 2 , a connected supply battery powering the LED through the top switch section alone , with battery positive to 2 and battery negative to 4 would power up the led, BUT have some AC line connectivity of that battery power circuitry , when AC power is switched on.

MAGGED AND MARKED UP REFERENCING:

TCBESsN.png


(The little Shady Lady is trying to get as FAR away as possible, before you push that switch. )


73s de Edd


.
 

dataworx

Feb 19, 2016
17
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
17
Hi 73's de Edd

Thank you very much for this comprehensive reply.

Happily, your interpretation in the large GREEN box of how this switch should work was confirmed early this morning by a technician working at the suppliers. I have wired the switch in already and it is working as expected.

Will the battery test that you have proposed here establish whether the illumination source is neon or LED?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,366
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,366
.

Sir dataworx . . . . . . . . . . . .

As you have said . . . .

I have wired the switch in already and it is working as expected.

The only question then, is if the units LED is illuminating adequately, if so, then they have improved upon the ultra simple wiring such as their illustration has shown and is atually evolving on up to the circuitry that I have shown within the DOTTED insert rectangle.
If having NO LED illumination now , the internal dropping resistor is probably vaporized, along with the LED being cratered out.
( Any chance that upon first time power up, that you saw a VEWY-VEWY-VEWY bright RED ? flash come from the unit ? )
The 9 V DC battery to illuminator LED test I initially mentioned, was to be done BEFORE the switch unit was ever installed into circuitry.
PLUS they should warranty replacement for such a gross error in proper technical referencing.
As it is shown, in their micro schema, I can only see this units use with switching BOTH legs of a proper polarity wired ~12VDC voltage.
OR only switching one leg of AC power and using the other leg for DC voltage to the illuminator LED switching . . .with some undesired AC connectivity between .
I never could find a replica switch to tie into the actual manufacturer . . .sort of suspecting Taiwan instead of the other sources . . .they are happy to refer to Canadian and US UL compliance.


73s de Edd


.



 
Last edited:
Top