Yamaha TSR-5810 No Power, No Standby Light, No Relay Click

[as0]

Hi, I bought a used Yamaha TSR-5810 off eBay and the seller said it was in power surge protection mode. Just got the unit today, dead as a doornail. Can't enter SELF-DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTION. Of course they weren't honest in the listing. None of the button combinations work to bring it up. I have no standby light. I've tried unplugging for an hour and holding the power button for 60 seconds, but none of that stuff works so I am guessing it's an internal problem. Also when pressing the power button, I don't hear the relay click on at all.

I have a multimeter, but no advanced diagnostics equipment. I also have a copy of the service manual if anyone needs to see its schematics.
There is 120V from the wall coming into the receiver, I also checked the power switch for continuity and it is working I believe, beyond that, I'm not sure where to start. Any help would be great. Here is the diagram. I attached a PDF version to this post for easier viewing.

 

[as0]

I wanted to add an update to this post, even though mods haven't approved it yet. I found a diode bridge rectifier on the standby board that has a short. Those are supposed to be open right? Would that cause the power not to turn on? Part no. WW745500. https://fixpart.dk/da/product/view/0090986680

 

[as0]

I found a diode bridge rectifier on the standby board that has a short. Those are supposed to be open right? Would that cause the power not to turn on? Part no. WW745500.

Sorry, this is actually called a "Schottky Power Rectifier". It's screwed into a heatsink so I will have to take it out first before testing it.

 

[kellys_eye]

I found a diode bridge rectifier on the standby board that has a short. Those are supposed to be open right?

What makes you think it has a short? It will conduct from one pin to two others but that depends on how you're measuring it too.

Have you done the 'basic' tests first i.e. is the fuse ok? If so, measure the DC across C5419 - it will be 'lethal' (if you touch it) so take care. The DC voltage should be according to the red text on the schematic (I can't read it). Is this correct?

Post a picture of the actual board - the most common issue is a bulging (defective) capacitor i.e. C5421/C5422

 

[as0]

Looking for physical issues was the first thing I did and was hoping for but I didn't see anything or any bulges. The bottom of C5419 looks a little weird but IDK. I spent a long time looking. The reason I thought/think D5408 (power rectifier) is bad is because it beeps when I touch the outside pins, even when I switch positive and negative terminals. From what I read and watch videos on, that means a short, but I probably need to unscrew it from the heat sink first and take it off the board and retest.

The voltage output I got from C5419 was like 490-500+ volts. That's what my multimeter was showing. I can't find the voltage on the schematic for C5419, so I'm not sure if that's good or bad.

 

[as0]

This is all I see for C5419 in the service manual and my best guess is that I need to add up all the pink voltages to get the value? I'm just guessing.

 

[kellys_eye]

Nope - the pink voltages have country-specific values, J-Japan, U-USA, G-United Kingdom etc. If you're in the USA it should read around 165V. 500V is Waaaaayyy too high! Sure you're using the meter correctly and/or that it's working correctly?

The beep you get when testing that diode is because the outside terminals are connected together via the pcb tracks.

 

[Bluejets]

it should read around 165V. 500V is Waaaaayyy too high! Sure you're using the meter correctly and/or that it's working correctly?

+1..........
Smps can be tricky for experienced people to fix, newcomers almost impossible as they do not take the time to find out how they work.

A good start is to test caps...then any diodes in the area, then suspect the switcher ic.

 

[as0]

Nope - the pink voltages have country-specific values, J-Japan, U-USA, G-United Kingdom etc. If you're in the USA it should read around 165V. 500V is Waaaaayyy too high! Sure you're using the meter correctly and/or that it's working correctly?

The beep you get when testing that diode is because the outside terminals are connected together via the pcb tracks.

Oh, whoops I was using AC I think instead of DC. I redid it and it showed around 165 so that capacitor is good.

 

[as0]

+1..........
Smps can be tricky for experienced people to fix, newcomers almost impossible as they do not take the time to find out how they work.

A good start is to test caps...then any diodes in the area, then suspect the switcher ic.

So since the relays aren't even clicking and I can't get it into diagnostics mode do you think it's something on the standby circuit board that's out? Is that enough to pinpoint the area?

 

[davenn]

So since the relays aren't even clicking and I can't get it into diagnostics mode do you think it's something on the standby circuit board that's out? Is that enough to pinpoint the area?

The relay will most likely be controlled by the controller chip on the digital board. for switching the system in and out of standby mode

First thing to do is check if that 5V rail is present that you can see at the top of the board - Socket W5401
Also labelled Digital (CB61)
if that 5V isnt present, then nothing is going to work properly

 

[davenn]

So since the relays aren't even clicking

if that 5V isnt present,

If it is present, then it needs to be traced into the digital board where it probably goes to the controller micro-chip.
You will need to look around the pins of the chip to find where that goes in .... probably the supply pin(s)
You need to look for the standby control lines and where they go back to the PSU board

 

[as0]

If it is present, then it needs to be traced into the digital board where it probably goes to the controller micro-chip.
You will need to look around the pins of the chip to find where that goes in .... probably the supply pin(s)
You need to look for the standby control lines and where they go back to the PSU board

I have the negative lead attached to the chassis ground and the positive lead is touching the 5.5v pin on CB61 and It shows no DC voltage. I checked the other pins and no voltages either. That's the correct way to check, isn't it?

 

[davenn]

That's the correct way to check, isn't it?

no, the negative lead of your test meter on the GND pin(s) of the connector .... They dont appear to be going to chassis ground

So measure between the GND and 5V pins of the connector

The 5V is derived from the switching transformer TS5401, the one with yellow tape on it
If the 5V is absent, then it means that the SMPS is not operating and is probably due to the switching IC, IC541 having failed

 

[as0]

no, the negative lead of your test meter on the GND pin(s) of the connector .... They dont appear to be going to chassis ground

So measure between the GND and 5V pins of the connector

The 5V is derived from the switching transformer TS5401, the one with yellow tape on it
If the 5V is absent, then it means that the SMPS is not operating and is probably due to the switching IC, IC541 having failed

*facepalm* Sorry lol, this is pretty challenging and all the videos I've watched don't show or explain where they put the ground when checking so I just have to try to see where they put it. It doesn't show voltage that way either...

What do you think would have caused the IC to go out because this unit looks flawless, it's only like 4 or 5 years old, no scratches or scuffs, no dust inside, and before I took it apart I checked the outside screws for missing paint and it didn't look like anyone had ever opened it up before.

I checked it like this with the meter on DC. Nothing. Do I need a hot air solder to take the IC out or just a normal soldering iron? Any other components that would be causing no power or only the IC?

 

[kellys_eye]

Chips fail - the FET inside those switching IC's is under quite a lot of stress so is the first thing to go dud and commonly so. They are NOT readily available devices but easily changed - standard soldering techniques - if you can find one.

Here's one possible place:

YD359A00 Yamaha Ic Str2a152 Rxv471/571ml

encompass.com

and there may be device equivalents that I haven't looked into.

 

[as0]

Chips fail - the FET inside those switching IC's is under quite a lot of stress so is the first thing to go dud and commonly so. They are NOT readily available devices but easily changed - standard soldering techniques - if you can find one.

Here's one possible place:

YD359A00 Yamaha Ic Str2a152 Rxv471/571ml

encompass.com

and there may be device equivalents that I haven't looked into.

I replaced that chip and it's still doing the same thing. Any other ideas?

 

[nv423]

I replaced that chip and it's still doing the same thing. Any other ideas?

I don’t have an answer for you, but I think I may have the same problem as you. Have you figured out the culprit?