Electrically conductive paint?

[default]

But that does call to mind an experiment to prove/disprove the oil
theory. I just cleaned my own remote and its working 100% with just a
light press on the keys. I plan to wrap the remote pad in metalized
polyester to see if that acts as a barrier.

Bad idea . . . remote is taking more pressure this morning, so if it
is migrating through the membrane it is filling the membrane so my
experiment won't prove anything.

But that suggests a second experiment: soaking the keypad in hot dish
detergent over night.

 

[default]

Hi...

I wonder how dag would do? (aquadag)

www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf

Take care.

Ken

I don't have any. Most of the aquadag I've seen is fairly brittle and
not very flexible.

Do you use the liquid?

 

[Ken G.]

A few times i have taken a small piece of wire bent it like a very small
staple and pushed it into the rubber over the worn pad .

 

[Jamie]

Well, as an amateur, here is what I have found works.

1. The oil, as you call it, is from the human body. i.e. fingers. The best
way to remove it is to use rubbing alcohol.
2. The longest lasting thing I have found to fix "worn out buttons" is to
clean the pad with alcohol and then put a dap of contact cement or rubber
cement on the pad. Then put down a little circle or square of standard old
kitchen aluminum foil. Press and hold the foil to the button for a couple of
minutes and then reassemble the remote. Its been working for me for about
three years on the garage remote that gets used 3 or 4 times a week.....

Just my two cents...

bob in phx.
in message

i find that the repair kit sold in many places to fix the
heater tape connections on your defroster work well.
an applicable conductive brush on that is highly conductive with
most likely copper in it..
dries in a short time.

 

[Asimov]

"CRaSH" bravely wrote to "All" (03 Dec 05 07:52:41)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Electrically conductive paint?"

CR> From: "CRaSH" <[email protected]>
CR> Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:350252

Does anyone know where to get something like that?

CR> Go to sci.electronics.repair and you'll get some info from the pro
CR> repair folks - name it, and someone's done it, fixed it, or will have
CR> a link!!


If you have some Sheffield "Metalic Leaf Finish" around, either the
gold or silver, it is conductive. It costs about $7 for a 55 ml jar.
You can find it in most paint or hardware stores, etc. Some Testors
paints are also conductive, i.e. chrome IIRC.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Resistance Is Futile! (If < 1 ohm)

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a vinyl (rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of a TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the black conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive paint so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switch work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?

I wonder if the stuff to repair rear window defogger strips will work
for this? Has anyone tried that? Can you still get it?

Tom

 

[b]

"Jerry G."

No doubt this sounds like what I was looking for... but a quick Google
turns up nothing. Can someone get me a little closer to this product?

Dallas

I use a German product called 'Leitsilber' , silver conductive paint,
bought in electronics suppliers. pricey but has done many a remote for
me.
-B.

 

[[email protected]]

I don't know if it's come up yet but GC has a product called "Nickel
Print" that you can pick up at electrical/electronic supply stores or
order online. I've also heard good things about the very expensive
rubber keypad repair kit.

 

[Edd Whatley]

In between most key pads and the circuit board below is a viny
(rubber)
membrane pad that has an electrically conductive area that closes two
contact points on the circuit board below . (Like on the inside of
TV
remote under the push buttons)

I have a device on-off switch that is failing because the blac
conductive
surface is wearing off. What I am looking for is that conductive pain
so I
can dab a bit back on to the contacting surface area to make the switc
work
again.

Does anyone know where to get something like that?


Dallas


ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

I have two thoughts on this :
The first being that it might be posssible for contaminants to hav
gotten to the mating surfaces as mentioned. I sometimes also have t
clean a pad of what seems to be have been a migration to its surfac
from within the "vinyl" body. It seems to be worse if environmentall
exposed to a higher temp, naturally. I also do a cleaning with ethylen
alcohol but only in a non agressive action, such as to permit
degreasing action only, with no further deteriortion of the conductiv
agent on the pad.
The other, and most common problem, actually is that there is n
contaminant present, but merely a shiny surface / sheen present on
pad surface due to massive usage. If that proves to be the case I D
NOT clean the pad initially but get it out where it can be turned fo
observation .The idea is for the light from a lamp source in front o
you to shine towards the shiny pads surface and then reflect off i
towards your eyes. Then you use one of the pencil/stick style o
typewriter erasers made by Eberhard Faber, (or others) and sharpen i
to a quasi rounded point and buff it to a rounded dome shape on clea
demin and then EVER so lightly, erase the shine from the conductiv
pads top surface, just enough to acquire a a matte surface. As whe
observed with the referenced, reflected light source. Then, lastly, yo
ever so slightly solvent clean that new surface.
I have also tried copper foil, aluminun foil, resurfacing with bot
their attached adhesives ....BAAAd..........as well as additiona
adhesive types...contact cement...glupe
sue......RTV....Pliobond....the last, the best, but still not up t
perfection. I will pass on all of their performances/ reliabilities.
The best thing used yet is some colloidial graphite solution that i
used for making an aquadag grounding coating for picture tubes. It i
good enough in its tenacity and sticking action as to be applied to
SLICK glass surface of a picture tube and stay with it for 20-3
years+. I just degrease the pads surfaces and use a Q-tip to put a dro
topside and then let it dry hard. Then the fix is done.
Lastly, if perchance, your referenced "Dallas" is coincident with you
location, I can provide you with a bit of same coating.
73's de Ed

 

[Dallas]

"CRaSH"

Never mind, just noticed that's where you're at - assuming this is the same
Dallas as at AGMFS..

Yo CRaSH... waddya drinkin' them Old Fashions with a cherry again?

What are you doing over here?... Never mind, it's completely logical given
your test bench.

Hey, this is a fascinating group... I'm glad I found my way here, I've
already found all kinds of interesting little tidbits in other threads. In
case you didn't know, in my neighborhood I'm known as the guy who can fix
stuff that every other repair guy considers hopeless.

I'm pressing the subscribe button on this group.

Dallas

 

[Dallas]

"default"

ANYONE FINDS THE ANSWER TO THIS ONE . . . pLEASE pOST.

Update on my repair adventures today:

First this is not a remote control, it's a $ 1200.00 medical device I'm
fixing for my neighbor. They won't send you a keypad because they don't do
parts. Accessing the keypad takes about 7 screws and 3 minutes. They want
the patient to rent one and send the broken unit to them to fix for hundreds
of dollars. Bastards.

The first attempt was using the Window Defogger repair paint. I could not
get the silver paint that I've heard about, instead Permatex sells a new kit
called "Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit". Long story short, that
paint actually flaked off the surface with no effort.

Next, I tried to stick a tab of adhesive aluminum duct tape to the pad but
the area is too small to hold the tape. Next I tried to glue the piece of
aluminum duct tape with E6000. No way... pops right off the surface.

Then I tried aluminum duct tape using super glue and it adhered nicely. I
think the key here is that the vinyl pad won't hold paint or contact
cements, they peel right off. I think the solvent in the super glue etches
the vinyl and makes a very nice adhesion. So far so good.

I'm guessing the aluminum duct tape is a better choice than aluminum foil
because of its increased thickness.

Anyway, God Bless Usenet, I can't even remember how many times it's provided
answers that would have been impossible to get before the Internet.

Thanks

Dallas

 

[Dallas]

"Edd Whatley"
Hey Edd, I'm going to need to have a backup on this repair in case it goes
south. Is the material Ken Weitzel referenced the same material you're
talking about?

http://www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf


Dallas

(both moniker and my location)

 

[Arfa Daily]

"default"

Update on my repair adventures today:

First this is not a remote control, it's a $ 1200.00 medical device I'm
fixing for my neighbor. They won't send you a keypad because they don't
do
parts. Accessing the keypad takes about 7 screws and 3 minutes. They
want
the patient to rent one and send the broken unit to them to fix for
hundreds
of dollars. Bastards.

The first attempt was using the Window Defogger repair paint. I could not
get the silver paint that I've heard about, instead Permatex sells a new
kit
called "Complete Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit". Long story short, that
paint actually flaked off the surface with no effort.

Next, I tried to stick a tab of adhesive aluminum duct tape to the pad but
the area is too small to hold the tape. Next I tried to glue the piece of
aluminum duct tape with E6000. No way... pops right off the surface.

Then I tried aluminum duct tape using super glue and it adhered nicely. I
think the key here is that the vinyl pad won't hold paint or contact
cements, they peel right off. I think the solvent in the super glue
etches
the vinyl and makes a very nice adhesion. So far so good.

I'm guessing the aluminum duct tape is a better choice than aluminum foil
because of its increased thickness.

Anyway, God Bless Usenet, I can't even remember how many times it's
provided
answers that would have been impossible to get before the Internet.

Thanks

Dallas

Have you tried my pad substitution method detailed some distance further up
the thread ? Works well for me ...

Arfa

 

[Dallas]

"Arfa Daily"

Have you tried my pad substitution method detailed some distance further up
the thread ? Works well for me ...

I was strongly considering it especially since I've got half a dozen old
dead remotes in the attic I could scavenge. But, I was afraid that the
super glue wouldn't adhere the two and I would be left with a shorter keypad
pad. But, now I know that super glue does work so if I have to redo it will
be high on my list of options.

Dallas

 

[Edd Whatley]

Hey Edd, I'm going to need to have a backup on this repair in case i
goes
south. Is the material Ken Weitzel referenced the same materia
you're
talking about?

http://www.achesonindustries.com/doc/pds/AquadagE.pdf


Dallas

(both moniker and my location)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Roger Roger... one and the same ,I got mine from the collection vat tha
was in the spray room where they coated the tubes. It was from a loca
tube rebuild plant . If you will send me a mailing adee, I will tripl
ultrasonically seal a 6 mil pouch of it for placement in a bubble wrap t
mail to you.
I am contactable as [email protected].
eddwhatley(insert at logo)yahoo.com

73's de Edd

(Lucky I even caught you, as I saw a mirror posting on epanorama site.)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~