Sony RM-YD103

[Seand43]

Hi Everyone, I’m new to the forum and new to electronics repair. I thought I’d start with something small. The Sony RM-YD103 remote completely stopped working. After testing every component, I think I found the problem. I thought it was a transistor (see picture) but couldn’t find anything online about it. It is completely open. I’m not sure about the symbol after the 400 either. I posted pictures of where it came from on the board. Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Sean

 

[Delta Prime]

Welcome to Make Pro!
My good friend the photo below is only an example the values right now mean nothing but this is what you have.
It is called an ceramic resonator
I would put that back.
Put the batteries back in the remote control if you have a cell phone that takes video point the remote control at the cell phone while taking video press the volume or the channel button if you see a light come on remote control that means at least the infrared LED is working.
Do you like movies?

Take a look at the PDF document.

 

[Delta Prime]

Sorry please delete.

 

[Harald Kapp]

It is our policy not to delete posts (unless there is a very, very specific reason).

 

[Seand43]

Thanks for the reply Delta Prime. I tried that trick and there was nothing from the LED. I also pulled and tested the NPN SMD transistor in the photo. Reflowed the chip pins and replaced the capacitor. All the resistors test fine and the SMD cap as well. Is the resonator supposed to read open on all pins?

 

[Seand43]

There was some corrosion on the chip when I started. I cleaned it and made sure there was no bridging on the pins. My mistake was leaving the corrosion and testing it to see if it bridged the pins.

 

[Seand43]

Sorry, I meant to say “not leaving the corrosion and testing the pins.”

 

[kellys_eye]

Did you try new batteries. Have the batteries ever been inserted incorrectly? Is the push key membrane clear i.e. are the keys actually making good contact with the PCB pads under them? etc.

 

[Seand43]

I definitely did new batteries. The batteries were not put in backwards to my knowledge. I cleaned all the keys and none were activating the LED. I was pretty diligent with the basic things to try first. Again, there is open resistance across all the legs on the ceramic resonator. I don’t know much about these components but I don’t think they are supposed to be open are they?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir Seand43 . . . .
What you have yourself's there . . . . is being a . . .more specific . . . 400 killing-hurts ceramic resonator of the code dated forty 41st week of 1993-1983-2003 ?.
IT SEEMS THAT IF . . . . .
the battery(s) is /are good and the microprocessor, along with this unit are O.K. there will be some VERY strong digital chirps being additionally emitted in the low frequency radio spectrum . . . .SO . . . additionally pull out a small AM pocket sized radio, so that it will then physically be able to get very close in and "kiss" that remotes case.
Initially set the radio at the very bottom of the AM radio band and OFF of any station and run volume to max.
If you want a dry run of what to expect, use another known working infrared remote and try first.
Upon pressing a GOOD remote button there should be a burst or repeated bursts of serial digital info .
If you want the effect in THOUSANDS of thresholds of duplication, just take that radio up towards the face of a working monitor screen or Tee Wee !

If the tests so confirm . . . . . then move on to that BAD unit and this will confirm if the initial resonator and u/p and drive transistor are working.

On that IR emitter diode, that is being located at the very front end of the remote . . .confirm that it has good solder flow around its leads and that either one of them is not floating free in its solder pad, due to poor wetting action back at flow /wave soldering at the factory . . . .and has now opened up its metalization bond due to diode current bursts.
An eagle eye kept on its lead ends and an in out rocking action from a grip to the diode envelope usually reveals a micro movement, if floating.

Thaaaaaaaaassssit . . . . . . . . . . .

ASIDE . . . . .

DP
Sorry please delete.
+
KAPP
It is our policy not to delete posts (unless there is a very, very specific reason).
=
I didn't like that specific post, and castigated him very, very severely, and now, that's being why he wants its deletion.

( Jes' messin' wit' 'cher mind .)

73's de Edd . . . . .

Now, I may not have been my mother's favorite child, but I was always the one she first thought of when the police turned up at our front door.

.

 

[Delta Prime]

After testing every component, I think I found the problem. I thought it was a transistor (see picture) but couldn’t find anything online about it

I would think the same thing only because it has three pins. But anyway. You know what that component is now and I'm not trying to beat you up.but I cannot trust you...when you say you tested all the components because depending on how you tested them it's very likely you've damaged other components as well or your test results would be not what you expect them to be and cause confusion. some components can be tested (in circuit) meaning you do not have to de-solder them.
Other components must be tested out of circuit.

I didn't like that specific post, and castigated him very, very severely, and now, that's being why he wants its deletion.

No he said that for very very good reason I'm thinking it was because I didn't know the proper protocols or appreciate the difficulties they must do to edit I think I just made unnecessary work that they had to do but I still don't know the particulars or the technical aspects of "tidying up" threads so it was on me. I just feared that I created unnecessary work for them. Besides...you run me over and then you back up over me again (I kind of like that!) You big cat butt.

 

[Seand43]

Thanks for the responses.
73’s de Edd:
I will try the am radio and check the solder joints on the LED.

I'm not trying to beat you up.but I cannot trust you...

I don’t feel beat up. I don’t trust me either. I’m sure you guys see all kinds of people that just buy a soldering iron and start pulling stuff apart. I’m pretty confident I didn’t wreck anything with the testing. Although, I’m new to electronics repair, I’m not new to automotive and electrical repair. I tested the Capacitor out of circuit and it was fine but since it was out, I decided just to put a new one in. As I said before, the SMD transistor was pulled and it tested fine (on a component tester) so it went back on. The resistors I measured in circuit and was getting what they were rated at. The small SMD capacitor, I didn’t pull but just made sure it wasn’t shorted. It might be the chip because it was corroded across pins. I bought a new remote already and it works fine but I pulled it apart and it is completely a different board. I am just doing this to see if I can fix it. I really enjoy this and thanks again for the help already.

 

[Delta Prime]

Excellent thank you for the response your breath of fresh air . I know I'm just repeating what has already been stated but make sure you turn the dial of the AM radio in between stations so we hear nothing but static. Then proceed. By the way did you know Caltech (my soon-to-be, alma mater) runs NASA.
HeHe. Go get'm kiddo!