kellys_eye
- Jun 25, 2010
- 6,514
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 6,514
We get a lot of those AI comments on here recently. Just ignore them.I'll be damned, the instructions. I knew I forgot sumpin...
We get a lot of those AI comments on here recently. Just ignore them.I'll be damned, the instructions. I knew I forgot sumpin...
10/4We get a lot of those AI comments on here recently. Just ignore them.
No, the problem is - as I said above - the actual connection points. The bolt on the seat runner NOT getting hot means it's a GOOD connection!'m wondering if a negative lead directly to the battery will keep me from having to start the truck and keep the positive leads from getting warm?
No, the problem is - as I said above - the actual connection points. The bolt on the seat runner NOT getting hot means it's a GOOD connection!
Problem with 'remote' earths (via the chassis) is that the return to the battery is all the way through the vehicle body and THEN through the battery-to-chassis wiring (usually a braided cable) which could be a point of failure if the total current through it exceeds its carrying capacity. Remember, the electrical wiring is designed for the VEHICLE to operate properly, not add-on accessories and especially not accessories that demand such massive currents!
Nice crimped connectors though
The inverter has a warning beep when the input voltage drops too low. I can run the microwave through the inverter without starting the engine at first. The microwave will go about a minute before the inverter starts beeping. And it will go about 2 minutes before the inverter shuts down. So usually when it starts beeping I start up the truck and either the beeping stops or it still beeps but it won't shut down.No, the problem is - as I said above - the actual connection points. The bolt on the seat runner NOT getting hot means it's a GOOD connection!
Problem with 'remote' earths (via the chassis) is that the return to the battery is all the way through the vehicle body and THEN through the battery-to-chassis wiring (sometimes a simple braided cable) which could be a point of failure if the total current through it exceeds its carrying capacity. Remember, the electrical wiring is designed for the VEHICLE to operate properly, not add-on accessories and especially not accessories that demand such massive currents!
Nice crimped connectors though
Oh yeah, I was going to solder them but I don't have a torch big enough to heat it up enough. So I bought this hydraulic crimper at harbor freight. The things a beast! It has dies on from one gauge all the way down to 14 gauge. Works perfect. $75 thoughNice crimped connectors though
Thank you guys,"Installing a 12-volt inverter in a car might be a practical method to power small electrical gadgets on the road. To minimize excessive drain on the vehicle's battery, ensure appropriate installation. Always utilize proper gauge wiring and secure connections to ensure safety and dependability while enjoying the benefits of portable power."