I need help with fixing a Sega Mega Drive 2 controller

[Recordable2000]

Hello, I need help fixing the right direction of the D-pad on this controller. All other buttons are working, the only broken part is the right pad (shown in the picture). I bought this controller a few days ago along with the Sega Magistr Drive 2 console. It is a Russian clone of the Mega drive from 2001, I assume this is the controller that originaly came with the console. With that said, this controller is most likely not original and is a clone too, which also shows with a different circuit board. The quality of the controller is way better than any I used in the past, so It's very much worth repairing to me. When I got it, the black wire on the controller was split in half, but I think I fixed that part and it should be making a connection. As I said, the only button that is not working is the right direction, even when testing the pad only with just the board. It looked as if somebody opened and messed with the controller board, and the solder job was pretty messy, so I resoldered all of the wires in the places I found them in and hoped that would fix it, unfortunately it did not. There is also one non populated place where a wire could be soldered, but no extra wire. It could be possible that the previous owner soldered one of the wires in the wrong place and I just repeated his mistake, but I don't really know how to test that because I'm not very experienced in electronics and still learning about them in school. That is all the information I know about this controller, and I hope somebody may have an answer or at least a suggestion. Thank you in advance.

 

[kellys_eye]

What you don't show are the conductive rubber pads under he buttons themselves that form the path for the 'switch' current to flow and thus work. Is the pad there? Is it clean? You can temporarily short the 'dud' tracks with another pad to prove the pad works with the track.

 

[Recordable2000]

What you don't show are the conductive rubber pads under he buttons themselves that form the path for the 'switch' current to flow and thus work. Is the pad there? Is it clean? You can temporarily short the 'dud' tracks with another pad to prove the pad works with the track.

Of course, I added the picture of the pad used for the D-pad. I cleaned it and as I said, tried pressing it with the pad but it did not work. I also tried with other pads, and tried cleaning the board with alcohol but it did not do anything. It is definetly an issue in the board, not the pads.

 

[kellys_eye]

If you can't see any physical breaks in the track then the only conclusion is that the onboard chip (under that black blob) is dud in some way. It's not repairable. Double-check for breaks and clean the pins on the edge of the board as I can see a solder drop between two of them. That won't help matters!