Sir pharaon . . . . .
Correct, in that units
Surface Mount . . . M7's . . .equate in electrical equivalency to a leaded general purpose 1N4007 diode .
You could ease the sharpness of bend at the case and form into this *** shape, to get two folded under tabs to solder to the foil lands. You
PRE TIN both the lead tabs and the foil lands by adding fresh solder to the foil tabs and then micro position and reflow solder them .
***
OR . . . . you could fold a diodes end lead over and mount them vertically, such as the F1 resistor is now done.
Just don't get so
DEEPLY engrossed in the mounting aspects, such that you acidentally get 1 or more diodes polarity-(ies) installed backwards . . . . . . the power supply . . . . . it then go
BOOM ! ! ! . . . . on power up.
Replace all 4 of the original units in order to maintain a "balanced" set of 4 new diode junctions.
Your pic didn't quite all encompass, in showing the
MAGIC part number on the 8 pin IC nearby.
It is probably enclosing a now dead shorted POWER FET built within it . . . . or else . . .that chip feeds over to driving a separate . . . . shorted out ? . . . .POWER FET.
I wouldn't worry about that popped 10 ohm resistor for just now, and just wire in leads to a 60 watt incandescent lamp, until testing with it during power up, then reveals, no further defective component problems .
Then, the use of a 10 ohm carbon film type would blow open at the lowest overload level of loading . . .fast acting . . ., whereas a metal film unit would give more time lag . . . .it appears that original unit is being metal film unit.
Thaaaaaaaaaassssit . . . . .
73's de Edd . . . . .
I'm not a snob. . . . . . . I'm just better than you are.
.