R
Rich Grise
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
Why not use a 'cube tap' on the main outlet? Then plug in both strips
to the 'cube tap' (a cube tap is a single to three adapater).
AKA "octopus outlet"? ;-)
Cheers!
Rich
Why not use a 'cube tap' on the main outlet? Then plug in both strips
to the 'cube tap' (a cube tap is a single to three adapater).
Jim said:I don't see any major issues (I presume "Item #4" means _section 4 ??)
Keep in mind that was a long time ago, 1980.
It's common now for ordinances (building codes) to simply require, by
reference, adherence to NFPA and NEC.
The thought is that at some point someone will put 10 amps load on the
first strip, then put 10 amps load on the second, and because the
first strip is rated at 13 amps (typically) all heck will break loose.
Jim said:Isn't the fire marshal's real concern the daisy-chain??
Do you have "arc protection" breakers?
I can almost assuredly declare that this is only the case with importedTwo strips + surge suppressor.
"UL" is required for temporary use too. UL <> NFPA. NFPA is the
controlling authority in most jurisdictions.
The UL approved mounting holes won't catch on fire. ;-)
Also note that "UL" is often counterfeited.
Typically, each contact on a strip won't be rated for the full load
of the strip, which is what you're asking from inline strips.
Florida is known to be the worst state for such things. ISTR theyYeah, the number of outlet spec. I've seen that in a lot of
jurisdictions and while they may be old they are often still enforced.
If you are lucky. I remember NFPA 70 Article 110 or something like that
not allowing high amperage loads such as coffee makers on power strips.
Not that this makes a lot of sense either on a power strip that is
properly rated.
Anyhow, I have yet to see a conclusive reason why it's unsafe to
daisy-chain. Not some law but engineering numbers.
Absolutely incorrect. By LAW (compliance rules), EACH outlet available
on the strip must be capable of handling the full current capacity rating
of the strip. Use a little common sense. Hell, the interconnection
wires inside handle less current than the blades in the outlets do. If
anything inside would fail, it would be the interconnections, not the
outlet itself.
I can almost assuredly declare that this is only the case with imported
products, typically those from China.
There are not very many, if ANY US manufacturers that pull this lame
shit.
Peter said:Could you just add another couple of duplex outlets on the same
circuit as the existing outlets - then each power bar could be plugged
in to a wall outlet independently. No need to run new circuits from
the breaker panel (as long as you don't go over the breaker's rating.)
UL says they aren't supposed to be mounted anywhere. From the UL "White
Book":
"Relocatable power taps are not intended to be permanently secured to
building structures, tables, work benches or similar structures ...."
Then mounting hardware is a bit strange.
My understanding:
The NEC (published by the NFPA) has no intrinsic authority. It has to be
adopted by a governmental unit (and is widely adopted, sometimes with
modifications).
The NEC generally requires wiring installed to be "approved". Approval
is by the "authority having jurisdiction", the inspector or governmental
unit. They would normally use listing by UL (or maybe another nationally
recognized testing laboratory).
Once the wiring is installed, OSHA would want equipment that is plugged
in to be UL listed (or equivalent). That should include a church. OSHA
would not cover a home. Fire (and other codes) could also further
restrict electrical requirements.
Maybe Joerg should threaten the fire inspector with a "higher authority".
"Same mentality caused a local dog kennel to smoke or fry 20 some
dogs because power strips were daisy chained. They also assumed a
circuit breaker made it safe."
Not true at all. You statement should be "You can certainly start aDo you have the details of what actually started the fire? After all, you can
certainly start fires with a dozen wall-mounted outlets just as readily as you
can with a dozen power strips.
All it takes is one wall wart to
melt down.
Cite. That's certainly not true of duplex outlets (15A contacts).
Exactly the case. Though anything can be (and likely is)
counterfeited, even the Trademark. Why stop at 'UL'?
Duh! Ya think?
krw said:There is no requirement that he do so. His opinion is law until
you take him to court. If you like tilting at windmills, go for it
but don't expect to ever win.
A 15 Amp duplex outlet must handle the full 15 Amps on EITHER of its
outlet positions.
Also, have you ever even seen the interconnection wires typically used
in power strips? The current variety barely handles the amperage the
strip is rated at.
The best little six outlet power strip I ever saw or used was/is the
Radio Shack unit that was sold back in the 80s. It had hard, solid
outlet interconnects, and used real, 'full bore' outlets, like those used
in housing construction. The ten amp breaker opened up right at the ten
amp limit, without fail.
Archimedes' Lever said:When was the last time you saw that?
They too must comply, and that means the capacity to fold back upon a
dead short scenario, so that means that ANY load presented to the output
of ANY walwart should NEVER bring the walwart temp up to the melting
point of the plastic it is housed in, AND it should return to normal
operation after the short is removed.