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Remington Shaver HC6550 not to full Power

CircutScoper

Mar 29, 2022
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No wait at all.
Okay. I have to run an errand but in the meantime, I have a guess and am ready to place a bet.

I think a poor solder joint or corrosion in the connections between batteries and circuit board has developed a high resistance, causing the voltage at the control circuitry to drop when the motor starts, triggering the low-voltage cutoff (designed to protect the batteries from excessive discharge) and turning the shaver off.

I bet, if you snoop around with your multimeter for a voltage drop that occurs when you push the button, you can find and fix it with simple resoldering.
 

THX1138

Dec 29, 2020
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Okay. I have to run an errand but in the meantime, I have a guess and am ready to place a bet.

I think a poor solder joint or corrosion in the connections between batteries and circuit board has developed a high resistance, causing the voltage at the control circuitry to drop when the motor starts, triggering the low-voltage cutoff (designed to protect the batteries from excessive discharge) and turning the shaver off.

I bet, if you snoop around with your multimeter for a voltage drop that occurs when you push the button, you can find and fix it with simple resoldering.
I did a continuity check on batteries and the motor. No problem.
 

CircutScoper

Mar 29, 2022
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I did a continuity check on batteries and the motor. No problem.

If by "continuity check" you mean the audible connection check option built into your multimeter, that will probably "beep" for 10s or even 100s of Ohms, so it's not anything like the connection quality check that I recommended.

But nevermind. Have fun replacing motors. Good luck.
 

CircutScoper

Mar 29, 2022
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I did a continuity check on batteries and the motor. No problem.

Meanwhile, if you want to test the motor (and battery) definitively, why not disconnect it from the circuit board, and connect it directly to the battery? If the shaver then runs at full speed (or doesn't), you'll know with good certainty that the fault lies elsewhere (or doesn't).
 

THX1138

Dec 29, 2020
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What happens if you hold the button down? Does the shaver still shut off after 5 seconds anyway?
The button is a lever that needs to pushed up and stays locked. So after you push the button up the motor runs for 5 seconds and then stops. Then I push the button/lever down to stop from draining the batteries.
 

CircutScoper

Mar 29, 2022
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The button is a lever that needs to pushed up and stays locked. So after you push the button up the motor runs for 5 seconds and then stops. Then I push the button/lever down to stop from draining the batteries.

Then I wonder if you could bypass the motor control circuitry entirely and just have the switch apply power to the motor directly from the battery?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sires . . . .

Remington Model HC6550
( and isn't THIS model particularly oriented towards " BALDIES " ? . . . to keep the old egg peeled.

Doesn't this unit use TWO motors . . . . assuredly you can see the motor that you are showing, with its eccentric / off set pin that wobbulates the cutter head back and forth.
BUT isn't there the barely shown / exposed end of a BLUE plastic portion of a vacuum cleaner, which also must use a second motor, maybe the fault is being with that portion? motor ?.

So o o o o o o o why don't you . . . (be prepared to solder back on after testing) . . . . . clip the RED wire of your cutter motor right at its terminals soldering point.

Then turn on and test the unit to see if the vacuum is working, or its motor might be at fault . . . if having no air flow and its accompanying whirring noise.

THEN, you also see if the " quickee" run time still persists, with motor one, now, no longer being involved..

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .




Ambiguity is invariant.


.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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I'm Ba a a a a a a a a a ck . . . . . ON WITH THE SHOW ! . . . . . . . . . . .
EatingPopcorn.jpg
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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DAMN . . .Sam !. . . . .Yore Rat Shak meter fo' certain . . .shore doesn't like your shaver motors, particularly the second one.
Lets see if that is due to HEAVY induced back EMF from the motor windings, at sequential brush / commutator disruptions .

See if those PETER METER leads will pull out JUST enough so as to expose bared metal banana probe contact.
Then you Press / lay down / wrap around a 1N4007 diode such that its silver banded wire lead cathode rests against the RED meter probe
gap and the other lead contacts the BLACK meter wires gap. OR you might need to use clip leads or ? sheer ingenuity.
Just be sure that only + power connection comes into that RED + meter lead, other wise its a forward conducting power diode across the power source . . .BANG . . . . BANG diode.
EXPECTING that erratic meter pointer to then somewhat or completely settle down.
Did you ever disable / disconnect a motor (s) . . . . such that you only had one motor running at a time ?

73's de Edd . . . . .
 
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THX1138

Dec 29, 2020
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Just would like to add that at this point I don't think there is any bad soldering or corrosion in connections. Nor do I think that there is any obstruction. I think I will be disconnecting the red leads from the motors and testing them individually to see if they run continuously when the motors sre disconnected. Any objections?
 

CircutScoper

Mar 29, 2022
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Just would like to add that at this point I don't think there is any bad soldering or corrosion in connections. Nor do I think that there is any obstruction. I think I will be disconnecting the red leads from the motors and testing them individually to see if they run continuously when the motors sre disconnected. Any objections?

Am I correct in guessing that the two batteries are connected in series? If so, why aren't we seeing anything remotely like 8.4V on the motors? Unless, that is, there IS bad soldering, corrosion, or some other cause of voltage loss between batteries and motors?

If I'm wrong, nevermind.

Also, are BOTH batteries producing 4.2V?
 
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THX1138

Dec 29, 2020
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Am I correct in guessing that the two batteries are connected in series? If so, why aren't we seeing anything remotely like 8.4V on the motors? Unless, that is, there IS bad soldering, corrosion, or some other cause of voltage loss between batteries and motors?

If I'm wrong, nevermind.

Also, are BOTH batteries producing 4.2V?
Both are producing the same voltage.
 

THX1138

Dec 29, 2020
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You've measured 8.4V?
Let's put it this way. If you look at my 3rd post you will see a picture of the device with a clear view of the batteries. Placing the negative probe from my MM on top of the battery to the left and then placing the positive probe on the bottom of the right battery gives me 4.2V. when the device is on and off. Likewise I get the same reading placing the negative probe on top of the right battery and the positive probe on the bottom of the right battery and vice versa with the other battery.
 
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