-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,629
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,629
.
Sir Swampfox . . . . .
So . . .it'sa looka lika' dis :
( I particularly like the heeevee- doodie springy-dingy-thingie . . . and I hope . . .a glazed porcelain or ceramic end cap. )
Do those ree-sistor-es-es visually appear to be bad or is resistance measurement proving them as bad ?
R20 is a 10 ohm @ 1/2 W carbon . . . I would upgrade to metal film.
R3 is a 0 decimal 12 @ 2 watt metal film.
If they HAVE BLOWN, check out all of the the resistance possibilities between the 3 pins
of the . . . unplugged iron hand unit . . . . and then between the 3pins and the outer ground shell.
On the main unit . . . check resistance readings between the Gate to MT1 and MT2 and then between
MT1 and MT2 . of the units power control which utilizes a BT139-600E Triac.
It 'soitanly wouldn't hurt, to have a GOOD SHARP closeup photo of the foil side of the PC board
if any further help is being needed .
BT139-600E TRIAC:
Aside . . .
For pre censorial approval purposes . . . . is OK Chris . . .hmmmm OK hmmmm OK Hmmmm ?
73's de Edd
Sir Swampfox . . . . .
So . . .it'sa looka lika' dis :
( I particularly like the heeevee- doodie springy-dingy-thingie . . . and I hope . . .a glazed porcelain or ceramic end cap. )
Do those ree-sistor-es-es visually appear to be bad or is resistance measurement proving them as bad ?
R20 is a 10 ohm @ 1/2 W carbon . . . I would upgrade to metal film.
R3 is a 0 decimal 12 @ 2 watt metal film.
If they HAVE BLOWN, check out all of the the resistance possibilities between the 3 pins
of the . . . unplugged iron hand unit . . . . and then between the 3pins and the outer ground shell.
On the main unit . . . check resistance readings between the Gate to MT1 and MT2 and then between
MT1 and MT2 . of the units power control which utilizes a BT139-600E Triac.
It 'soitanly wouldn't hurt, to have a GOOD SHARP closeup photo of the foil side of the PC board
if any further help is being needed .
BT139-600E TRIAC:
Aside . . .
For pre censorial approval purposes . . . . is OK Chris . . .hmmmm OK hmmmm OK Hmmmm ?
73's de Edd
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi,
I have the exact same issue. R3 & R20 are blown ,,, and D4 is acting like a resistor for reverse voltage.
Same here I searched for a long time .. but did not find anything but this post.
What is meant by "0 decimal 12" what is the value in Ohms?
I have the exact same issue. R3 & R20 are blown ,,, and D4 is acting like a resistor for reverse voltage.
Same here I searched for a long time .. but did not find anything but this post.
What is meant by "0 decimal 12" what is the value in Ohms?
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2011
- Messages
- 13,747
My guess: 0.12 Ohm
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,629
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,629
WINNER . . .WINNER ! . . . give Sir Harald . . . . that HUGE stuffed Teddy bear, off the top shelf at the Fair !
I just spelled it out, as I just wanted no error in that low value of resistors decimal point placement.
Now . . . after an interim 3 years lapse . . . I can not pinpoint my sourcing of that info, in being able to confirm that pair of resistors value or anything else.
But . . .design wise . . . . seems like that LOW 0.12 ohm value would be placed in series with the power feed to the irons heating element so as to be a current shunt in reading the power pull of the heating element. Also with that low of a value and 2 watt rating I can't see it overheating unless the irons heating element shorted out.
If we have to figure out anything else, best you submit 2 good closeup photos of both sides of the board.
¿¿¿ Seems like ??? the circuitry of the Duratech 1564 used, is being a similar circuitry clone of the Hakko 936 series of product.
73's de Edd . . . . . .
By the time you can finally just make ends meet, then they've gone and moved the damn ends !
I just spelled it out, as I just wanted no error in that low value of resistors decimal point placement.
Now . . . after an interim 3 years lapse . . . I can not pinpoint my sourcing of that info, in being able to confirm that pair of resistors value or anything else.
But . . .design wise . . . . seems like that LOW 0.12 ohm value would be placed in series with the power feed to the irons heating element so as to be a current shunt in reading the power pull of the heating element. Also with that low of a value and 2 watt rating I can't see it overheating unless the irons heating element shorted out.
If we have to figure out anything else, best you submit 2 good closeup photos of both sides of the board.
¿¿¿ Seems like ??? the circuitry of the Duratech 1564 used, is being a similar circuitry clone of the Hakko 936 series of product.
73's de Edd . . . . . .
By the time you can finally just make ends meet, then they've gone and moved the damn ends !
Hello, I've got the same issue with a TS-1564 with a burnt up R3, completed melted no bands are legible.
I found two posts here on this forum the other older post has a photo of the board, everything matches mine by sight so I belive it should be the same for R3 however the picture looks like red red gold gold that would be 2.2 ohm right?
But people here have stated 0.12 ohm. Can anyone confirm what R3 is.
I found two posts here on this forum the other older post has a photo of the board, everything matches mine by sight so I belive it should be the same for R3 however the picture looks like red red gold gold that would be 2.2 ohm right?
But people here have stated 0.12 ohm. Can anyone confirm what R3 is.
