Hi Joerg,
Yeah, sure, but the gravity constant hasn't changed much in the last few
thousand years
Wait until you find a bit of aspen shavings clogging your drain!
:> With 22 or 23 sq ft of pad and a 1HP motor dragging air
through it, there was always *something* plugged *somewhere*!
That's why I added the second pump feeding the spider -- so
we were *sure* the pads were always soaked regardless of what
bits of cruft got stuck in the supply/drip lines!
The mechanical engineering on those things could have been a tad more
smart. Like that draft angle. It ain't rocket science.
It's worse than that! Ours has a "dry side" and a "wet side"
(previous cooler had pads on all four sides -- downdraft. This
has pads on *one* side, but still downdraft). Premise is that
the dry side never has to deal with all that water in the
basin (previous cooler had the outlet *surrounded* by the
water basin).
But, if water *gets* into the dry side (e.g., microbursts
pushing rain water in through seams in the access doors),
there are vent holes to prevent it from ponding in the
dry side. Wonderful! Thoughtful!
Except, the water dripping through those vent holes
clings to the underside of the housing and follows
the draft angle -- towards the air outlet! At which
point, it cheerfully follows the ductwork *into* the
interior household ductwork!
I.e., while they thought ahead and recessed the *drain*
connection, they didn't ALSO dimple the vent holes to
prevent the water from following the skin!
Sure. But it usually takes only one thunderstorm or a big surge and ...
BZZZT.
That;s true of anything. You could go the route of many
of the "poor man" controls -- literally switching the line
voltage *in* the "wall unit".
Pressure is not an issue I believe. The filter in the central furnace
duct work is much smaller yet the CFM isn't much lower.
There is a *big* difference between our furnace's air volume output
and the cooler's! Cooler will change the air in the house in 3 or
4 minutes. The furnace takes 4 or 5 times that amount of time.
But if your
pollen load is high you'd need one that either automatically washes or
it'll be another chore on your monthly honey-do list.
Exactly. And with it on the roof, I have no desire to be traipsing
around up there "on demand"!
Sometimes our whole deck is covered yellow yet there's nothing of that
in the house even when the evap cooler ran all day. Sometimes you can
see the huge brownish puffs waft in from Yosemite. Can be seen from our
living room windows and that sight makes every allergy sufferer cringe.
Same here but they only use winter consumption to set that sewer
quantity. I bet it's the same in your case. You could ask them.
Sure. Doesn't help if you are watering citrus trees, though!
They use winter consumption to determine what your needs *should*
be. So, if your summer usage goes considerably higher than that,
you pay a premium.
I thought you guys live in CA which is basically PGE or SDE monopoly.
No; So. AZ.
Unless you are lucky and have a muni utility. PGE has those stupid
inverse tiers. If you run the A/C you are in tier 3 and higher in no
time and then the kWh price goes to 300% and up. It'll eat you alive.
Recall, the primary (comfort) role of the ACbrrr is dehumidification.
In Monsoon, drop the effective dewpoint 10 degrees and things feel
comfortable really fast!
OTOH, in Summer (dry), the effects of humidity are less significant.
It might be 110+ outside but without direct sun exposure, you can
be "comfortable" (not true of with 60 and 70 degree dewpoints like
midwest, northeast, etc.).
And, *far* less work required to remove heat from the air when it's
not also trying to pull the water out!
[I looked at the math once and the figures are alarming! I.e., if
you could figure out how to dehumidify the air *before* it passes
to the ACbrrrr, your energy consumption cuts in half (or so)!]