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Sir bline22 . . . . .
O.K. I am looking at the post #13 where you have the motor housing off . I see what looks to almost be a 100% intact brush in its holder, I am also expecting the opposite one being in the same pristine condition.
You explained your top red box but left me hanging on the explanation in the specifics in any referencing to the 2nd and 3rd red boxes.
You are saying:
I then plugged everything in and I have continuity from the motor red wire to the red wire on the
reed(?) switch is that right. Also, i have continuity from the black wire (red box) on the motor to the
brown wire on the reed sw(red box).
When I would check the black wire to the brown wire on the reed sw i would have my son trip the 2
switches to make sure they worked and I all looked good.
All I can relate to in the 2nd red box, is that it is pointing out the negative brush holder assembly.
Then you ask about the:
Last, do i need to put the motor cover back on when trying to power it up? i assume so.
In referring to the same post #13 photo where you have the motor shroud at the top TOTALLY pulled, and had you looked inside of it, you would have see the cluster of 2 STRONG ceramic magnets internally bonded , they are producing
STRONG magnetic fields which your exposed electromagnetically activated rotor works against.
So . . . certainly . . . . you have to replace THAT shroud.
Down at the very bottom you have your end cover and I am seeing the
RED and
BROWN motor wires going down to it. That cover, you can leave off, exposed.
We now revert to your different post #9 photo because 13 is being so overlit and reflective, that I cannot make out any of its connections details.
On #9 photo I can see the formerly loose PCB now has been remounted with its 2 screws and we see two separate cojoined pairs of solder pads, they are being there just to interface the 2 motor connections into an external wiring harness.
Of Those:
There are 2 cojoined solder pads, the right of which, connects to the
RED DC motor wire and the left of the co joined solder pad connects to a
RED wire of a harness of 4 wires which exit the housing.
The next co joined solder pad pairs have the
BLACK wire of the harness connected to one of the solder pads and the other half of the solder pad has the
BROWN motor wire connected to it.
If you now look at the whole small PCB you will see that the opposite half, apart from the motor
connections, will have a
WHITE ( which your drawing shows in a contrasty grey ) and
YELLOW wire from the harness, that connect to small solder pads.
Those connections foils are carried around the periphery of the board, to finally end up in accomodating the 2 very small leads of a magnetic reed switch.
That magnetic reed switch is being activated by its close proximity to a rotating bi-polar ceramic magnet tied into the lead screw gearing.
This device is only having a small power capability, which is serving merely as sending its switch closures as being counts of the rotation of the long lead screw.
Extreme limit detection of the lead screw travel is dependent upon the two switches which your son was manipulating.
Intermediate positions are being ascertained by the counts sent from the reed switch back to the
conrol electronics.
This procedure is a variant, which I see being extensively used on linear activators and correctional tracking positioners of azmiuth and elevation on satellite systems.
You say:
I then plugged everything in and I have continuity from the motor red wire to the red wire on the reed(?) switch is that right.
Also, i have continuity from the black wire (red box) on the motor to the brown wire on the reed sw
(red box).
This sounds all wierd, since the reed switch is being involved in an ENTIRELY separate circuit and should not be involved with ANY wiring to the DC motor. . . . . unless . . . . .a possible exclusion, with them sharing EITHER a common ground OR a power connection.
Below, is a redraw of your info, additionally incorporating steering diodes which would typically be encountered on a linear / screw drive actuator mechanism .
IF you put 12 VDC from a supply, as hefty as a car battery, to those two motor connections . . .
RED and -
BLACK /or/
BROWN that are coming directly out of the motor . . .you should immediately get some rotational motor activity, if all is being well with the motor. However, not turning quite as fast as with a full 24 V being supplied.
MAGNETIC REED SWITCH:
The reed switch is solely related to the rotation of the motor sending pulses out, in relation to the number of rotations of the lead screw. There may be upwards of 600-1000 pulses on a full transverse of the lead screw from one extreme limit to the other. That can be even further fine tuned on the positioning of the stopping of the lead screw by the use of either a quad polarity magnet or even a hex polarity magnet which would double or even triple the pulse outputs per turn of the lead screw.
Up at the control electronics there is a counter of these pules and if intermediate programmed stops need to be created in the linear actuator positioning, the outputted pulses are compared to a specific programmed in count. When the counts equate the actuator stops on a dime at that point.
There it remains, until a command promps it to proceed forward to the next programmed stop position.
MULTIPLE stopped positions can be programmed in by their counts .
At the extreme limits of travel, micro switches , such as your son was toggling earlier, will trip to stop the motor power just prior to extreme mechanical limits ( JAMMING UP ) and that instant loss of power being pulled by the motor, will tell the control electronics that the motor has reached an end of limit, so it then reverses the polarity of the supply voltage.
Then, it is being fully ready to go again.
On a start command, the motor will then be moving the lead screw, but starting in the other direction
YOUR DIAGRAM . . . . REDRAWN :
To now include end of limit steering diodes
73's deEdd
