Modding a lamp

[cards1]

hey, i never did electronics before, i did watch a course on youtube tho, i have a lamp that i want to modify, the lamp has 3 functions (light,voice,mist) & it shuts down after 5 seconds automatically, what i want to do is to turn off two of its functions (voice & mist) & make it to turn on indefinitely until i want it off.
do you think i will be able to do it?
& will i need new components?

 

[kellys_eye]

So you basically want a light 'with an on-off switch' then?

 

[cards1]

So you basically want a light 'with an on-off switch' then?

yes! what do you think?

 

[cards1]

yes! what do you think?

also its on 3 batteries.

 

[cards1]

So you basically want a light 'with an on-off switch' then?

can you please help? do i need to take out that black transistor to stop it from turning off?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir cards1 . . . . .

Your photo is coming up being far short of showing ALL of relevant info, of what is being fully needed . . .but . . . bless you ! . . . it's far better than no info at all.
So initially and basically, DO you find that units AMOUNT of light output / illumination is being adequate for your (night time? ***** ) needs.

OBSERVED FACTOIDS . . . . .

Your observed and questionably surmised the presence of a small BLACK transistor . . . with its leads marked as L1 L2 L3.
It is ACTUALLY being a tapped inductor . . . . its undoubtedly being used in an ultrasonic power oscillator circuit, that has its high voltage output (L3 portion) driving the small piezoelectric transducer in the bottom left corner with its YELLOW pair of wires.
Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
OR
Your observed and questionably surmised LARGE BLACK transistor . . . leaded with a GREEN wire set is being the units mini speaker which receives short audio clips from a custom u-Processor on the other side of the board, then some audio amplification up to speaker drive level.
Expect that u-P unit to be a CUSTOM unit and hidden under a black epoxy blob for protection.

Fill in Questions . . . . . Needed to be Answered . . .

Now for its 3 cell formed battery . . . . . . all are probably AAA or less likely AA sized . . .right?
Now, in accordance to whether the light source is being a small grain of wheat INCANDESCENT / FILAMENT type of bulb or LED lamp, along with the battery cell sizing will determine just how quick your wallet is drained in replacing overnight or daily use of depleted cells.

Now fill me in on some of the plugs around that board , going clockwise from top center. We have accounted for the 2 YELLOW wires to the mister driver.

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 BLACK wires passing up to a PALE GREEN cylinder / sleeving/base of a grain of wheat incandescent lamp ?

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 WHITE wires that go up to a sealed entry of the passage to the other side of the board. Is that possibly being the push button on the other side that starts off your mentioned timed events sequence ?

Over to the right is being an "overkill / or/ use up ! old surplus stock " , the 6 terminal Double Pole Double Throw slide switch, with only its right sides bottom corners two contacts being wired into, with the two orange leads.
Effectively, then making it a mere Single Pole Single Throw application / use.
Keep this in mind, as all that you might need to do, is use the left side switch in series with your light, so that the light STAYS ON after the initial start up sequence .

We are now up to the WHITE plug with its GREEN wire pair, already being accounted for as the units speaker

Next is the WHITE 4 pin connector , with its main power switch connections via an ORANGE wire pair.
Tell me where the RED third wire goes to.
Also, tell me where BLACK fourth wire goes to, it looks like a hole in the board, passing down to a white connector below, just above the keyed corner cut off of the PCB.
While we are at that cut off corner, there is also a RED and White wire set that passes thru a slot in the case, along with an incoming GREY and BLACK wire pair that goes under the PCB. . . .to where?

Final accounting is the last WHITE plugs YELLOW - GREY wire pairs passage up to the very top of the unit.

SUSPICIONS . . . as pending so far . . .with its limitations

That the RED and BLACK are being battery pack / power associated connections.
The WHITE is the sequence start push button.
The YELLOW - GREY . . . or . . . BLACK pair . . . or . . . GREY-BLACK . . . . . might be illumination source terminates.

*****
In my master boudoir, I have a Solar stake pole light , (without its stake pole) that rests against the overhead LED lamp cluster.
During lamp on, use time, it charges up. At overhead light turn off time, it then dimly illuminates the room.

Thaaaaaaaaassit . . . .

73's de Edd

Now, please tell me, just what happens when you get scared half to death . . . . .that next time?

.

 

[cards1]

hey, thank you very much for trying the help!
firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch & i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
secondly i want to add a more detalied picture.
now to your questions
the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
i think the lamp has two LEDs
i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.

 

[cards1]

Sir cards1 . . . . .

Your photo is coming up being far short of showing ALL of relevant info, of what is being fully needed . . .but . . . bless you ! . . . it's far better than no info at all.
So initially and basically, DO you find that units AMOUNT of light output / illumination is being adequate for your (night time? ***** ) needs.

OBSERVED FACTOIDS . . . . .

Your observed and questionably surmised the presence of a small BLACK transistor . . . with its leads marked as L1 L2 L3.
It is ACTUALLY being a tapped inductor . . . . its undoubtedly being used in an ultrasonic power oscillator circuit, that has its high voltage output (L3 portion) driving the small piezoelectric transducer in the bottom left corner with its YELLOW pair of wires.
Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
OR
Your observed and questionably surmised LARGE BLACK transistor . . . leaded with a GREEN wire set is being the units mini speaker which receives short audio clips from a custom u-Processor on the other side of the board, then some audio amplification up to speaker drive level.
Expect that u-P unit to be a CUSTOM unit and hidden under a black epoxy blob for protection.

Fill in Questions . . . . . Needed to be Answered . . .

Now for its 3 cell formed battery . . . . . . all are probably AAA or less likely AA sized . . .right?
Now, in accordance to whether the light source is being a small grain of wheat INCANDESCENT / FILAMENT type of bulb or LED lamp, along with the battery cell sizing will determine just how quick your wallet is drained in replacing overnight or daily use of depleted cells.

Now fill me in on some of the plugs around that board , going clockwise from top center. We have accounted for the 2 YELLOW wires to the mister driver.

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 BLACK wires passing up to a PALE GREEN cylinder / sleeving/base of a grain of wheat incandescent lamp ?

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 WHITE wires that go up to a sealed entry of the passage to the other side of the board. Is that possibly being the push button on the other side that starts off your mentioned timed events sequence ?

Over to the right is being an "overkill / or/ use up ! old surplus stock " , the 6 terminal Double Pole Double Throw slide switch, with only its right sides bottom corners two contacts being wired into, with the two orange leads.
Effectively, then making it a mere Single Pole Single Throw application / use.
Keep this in mind, as all that you might need to do, is use the left side switch in series with your light, so that the light STAYS ON after the initial start up sequence .

We are now up to the WHITE plug with its GREEN wire pair, already being accounted for as the units speaker

Next is the WHITE 4 pin connector , with its main power switch connections via an ORANGE wire pair.
Tell me where the RED third wire goes to.
Also, tell me where BLACK fourth wire goes to, it looks like a hole in the board, passing down to a white connector below, just above the keyed corner cut off of the PCB.
While we are at that cut off corner, there is also a RED and White wire set that passes thru a slot in the case, along with an incoming GREY and BLACK wire pair that goes under the PCB. . . .to where?

Final accounting is the last WHITE plugs YELLOW - GREY wire pairs passage up to the very top of the unit.

SUSPICIONS . . . as pending so far . . .with its limitations

That the RED and BLACK are being battery pack / power associated connections.
The WHITE is the sequence start push button.
The YELLOW - GREY . . . or . . . BLACK pair . . . or . . . GREY-BLACK . . . . . might be illumination source terminates.

*****
In my master boudoir, I have a Solar stake pole light , (without its stake pole) that rests against the overhead LED lamp cluster.
During lamp on, use time, it charges up. At overhead light turn off time, it then dimly illuminates the room.

Thaaaaaaaaassit . . . .

73's de Edd

Now, please tell me, just what happens when you get scared half to death . . . . .that next time?

.

hey, thank you very much for trying the help!
firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch & i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
secondly i want to add a more detalied picture.
now to your questions
the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
i think the lamp has two LEDs.
i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.

 

[cards1]

Sir cards1 . . . . .

Your photo is coming up being far short of showing ALL of relevant info, of what is being fully needed . . .but . . . bless you ! . . . it's far better than no info at all.
So initially and basically, DO you find that units AMOUNT of light output / illumination is being adequate for your (night time? ***** ) needs.

OBSERVED FACTOIDS . . . . .

Your observed and questionably surmised the presence of a small BLACK transistor . . . with its leads marked as L1 L2 L3.
It is ACTUALLY being a tapped inductor . . . . its undoubtedly being used in an ultrasonic power oscillator circuit, that has its high voltage output (L3 portion) driving the small piezoelectric transducer in the bottom left corner with its YELLOW pair of wires.
Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
OR
Your observed and questionably surmised LARGE BLACK transistor . . . leaded with a GREEN wire set is being the units mini speaker which receives short audio clips from a custom u-Processor on the other side of the board, then some audio amplification up to speaker drive level.
Expect that u-P unit to be a CUSTOM unit and hidden under a black epoxy blob for protection.

Fill in Questions . . . . . Needed to be Answered . . .

Now for its 3 cell formed battery . . . . . . all are probably AAA or less likely AA sized . . .right?
Now, in accordance to whether the light source is being a small grain of wheat INCANDESCENT / FILAMENT type of bulb or LED lamp, along with the battery cell sizing will determine just how quick your wallet is drained in replacing overnight or daily use of depleted cells.

Now fill me in on some of the plugs around that board , going clockwise from top center. We have accounted for the 2 YELLOW wires to the mister driver.

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 BLACK wires passing up to a PALE GREEN cylinder / sleeving/base of a grain of wheat incandescent lamp ?

Track down the next WHITE plugs 2 WHITE wires that go up to a sealed entry of the passage to the other side of the board. Is that possibly being the push button on the other side that starts off your mentioned timed events sequence ?

Over to the right is being an "overkill / or/ use up ! old surplus stock " , the 6 terminal Double Pole Double Throw slide switch, with only its right sides bottom corners two contacts being wired into, with the two orange leads.
Effectively, then making it a mere Single Pole Single Throw application / use.
Keep this in mind, as all that you might need to do, is use the left side switch in series with your light, so that the light STAYS ON after the initial start up sequence .

We are now up to the WHITE plug with its GREEN wire pair, already being accounted for as the units speaker

Next is the WHITE 4 pin connector , with its main power switch connections via an ORANGE wire pair.
Tell me where the RED third wire goes to.
Also, tell me where BLACK fourth wire goes to, it looks like a hole in the board, passing down to a white connector below, just above the keyed corner cut off of the PCB.
While we are at that cut off corner, there is also a RED and White wire set that passes thru a slot in the case, along with an incoming GREY and BLACK wire pair that goes under the PCB. . . .to where?

Final accounting is the last WHITE plugs YELLOW - GREY wire pairs passage up to the very top of the unit.

SUSPICIONS . . . as pending so far . . .with its limitations

That the RED and BLACK are being battery pack / power associated connections.
The WHITE is the sequence start push button.
The YELLOW - GREY . . . or . . . BLACK pair . . . or . . . GREY-BLACK . . . . . might be illumination source terminates.

*****
In my master boudoir, I have a Solar stake pole light , (without its stake pole) that rests against the overhead LED lamp cluster.
During lamp on, use time, it charges up. At overhead light turn off time, it then dimly illuminates the room.

Thaaaaaaaaassit . . . .

73's de Edd

Now, please tell me, just what happens when you get scared half to death . . . . .that next time?

.

hey man, where are you? I thought you were going to help me
the black & red wires (probably from the mister) that go under the board are connected to the thing you called inductor.
also you said something is rotating there? i dont think so.
is what i need to do is to unsolder the mister wires from the inductor (while leaving the inductor?) & remove the speaker plugs & to solder the power wire to the motion detector on off switch?
will the electricity amount to the LED's stay the same?

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir cards1 . . . . .



firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch &
i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
Verify that the ORANGE wired on off switch for the motion sensor is having its slide knob being at the speaker end of its travel, when being left in its ON position.

secondly i want to add a more detalied ( de-tailed ! )picture.

That;s being MUCH more helpful . . .as I can now see the battery holder and its (now I know) 3 AA size cells, also verifying its top + RED wire connection and BLACK wire - connection and then their being routed over to the 4 pin WHITE connector as being its pin 3 and 4 connections.

the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
Until I saw WHAT your device was being. I was initially considering illumination. Now we can see its related to creating "effect" lighting .

the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
I just previously acknowledged . . .

Re . . your markups labeling of the (power button), is it being the one that starts up a timed out effects demonstration ?
And its being sealed with a blob upon its WHITE wiring , then going DOWNWARDS , does it make a right angle rotation on the bottom . . . . . to then being forward facing ?

The motion sensor . . . . .
MUCH - MUCH smaller than I am usually encountering . . . .usually they are much larger in diameter.



i think the lamp has two LEDs.
Agreed . . . . . one as being the YELLOW flame light illumination and another COLOR one for illumination inside of the separate top flask.
Notice the joined / paired wires YELLOW AND WHITE color coding for that bottom " flame " wiring.
Logical . . . . that the companion GRAY AND WHITE paired cable might be for the separate LED light inside the flask.
CONFIRMATION ? . . . . .
Vewy-vewy cawefully . . . unplug the YELLOW AND WHITE connection and confirm that it no longer lites during an operational sequence.

There is also separate wires of of RED and BLACK, which must be the ultrasonic power drive level for the POWER piezoelectric element responsible for misting / fog inside the top flask. . . . its then wafting upward..
BTW . . . . for my information . . . just how much of that mister /fogging fluid needs to be added and at what intervals ? ? ? ? ?
Cuz' that transducer can be fractured (KAPUT !) if being left to run unloaded (dry) .

Referring to this blow up link below, of that unit, we can see, what looks like the GRAY AND WHITE PAIR and the RED and BLACK wires get routed . . . . possibly thru 1 hollowed support rod of the 3 and they then end up inside the top flask.

https://content.syndigo.com/asset/bec61d43-dc92-45c1-a814-e2f119e3c2e2/1920.jpeg

i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.
Right-o . . . agreed . . . . but at THAT time frame, I had not seen the photo of the WHOLE unit and can now see that it would be facing down toward the surface that the whole unit rests upon, with about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch spacing above that surface. . . . . . thereby . . . . letting its sound disperse laterally.
So o o o o o o o o lets let that still be a piezoelectric transducer, but now its acting as a "tweeter" speaker and handling only the very highest of audio frequencies . . . . bat shrieks, etc . . . or exotic high frequency music effects . .
Meanwhile, our other identified speaker is being a "squawker" optimizing on the voice range frequencies sound clips.
With a high likelihood, that the audio driver is being a right and left channel audio power amp, thereby frequency band pass circuitry is passing select high frequencies to the tweeter for one channel and voice frequency ranges get routed to the squawker by the other channel.

You Say . . . .
there is a 3 mm hole underneath it, like a button for a needle? what is it for.

like a button for a needle?
Reword that aspect to be:
That hole size is much like the hole size found in a button . . . . that hole . . . . . which a sewing needle passes through in the sewing on of that button.

what is it for.
The hole is to let the transducers generated sound out, not much area is needed at those high frequencies and limited sound levels.
Not so, on the units squawker speaker.


Now since the WHITE AND GRAY pair as well as the RED AND BLACK individual wires, seem to be non plug terminated . . .possibly hard wired in, beneath the circuit board. Time for you to remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws and provide pics of the other / foil side of the PCB for viewing.
( You're doing GR E E E E E A T so far ! )


hey, thank you very much for trying the help!

trying . . . . . . . ¿ trying ?

but . . . . . But . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . .

Haven't you received one HELL of a lot more of an Edd-u-cation after reading my posts, than before arriving here ?


ADD ONS . . .after just having read your 8:33 AM post

Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
This statement was related to the perception of the unit being placed such that the transducer face would be facing upward . . . as explained above . . . it stays facing downward to the surface that the unit is resting upon . . . . . . .so disregard ALL of that earlier statement.

the black & red wires (probably from the mister) that go under the board are connected to the thing you called inductor.
your confirmed observation just nailed that fact !
thus . . . . . leaving the co joined paired set of wires being for flask internal illumination



is what i need to do is to unsolder the mister wires from the inductor (while leaving the inductor?) & remove the speaker plugs & to solder the power wire to the motion detector on off switch?
You describe the unit as needing the prox detector needing to be turned on, if wanted to be activated by your personal proximity OR ELSE your having pressed the frontal ? manual push button.
It then goes thru its cycle and goes power dead, excepting for the minuscule proximity detector standby power pull . . . . . . all of the LEDS, audio and mister . . . . all power hogs . . . . . are then being disconnected . . . . . . . . until any reactivation.
On each of the two LEDS, one wire is grounded and the other is needing to get +4.5 VDC power from the battery pack via a transistor and current limiting resistor.

The other board side view is needed to see how this happening.

A double pole double throw manual switch is then installed to let the unit operate as it always was, or in its other position as having the proper voltage routed to the LEDS for their constant activation, all of the time that switch is being in that new position. ( The way you wanted it. )

will the electricity amount to the LED's stay the same?
After ascertaining the above info . . . .yeth.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Know what ? . . . . .
My wife is always stealing my t-shirts and sweaters . . . . but . . . . if I were to take just one of her dresses . . . . suddenly its . . . . . . "we need to talk" . . . . . .time.


.

 

[cards1]

Sir cards1 . . . . .



firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch &
i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
Verify that the ORANGE wired on off switch for the motion sensor is having its slide knob being at the speaker end of its travel, when being left in its ON position.

secondly i want to add a more detalied ( de-tailed ! )picture.

That;s being MUCH more helpful . . .as I can now see the battery holder and its (now I know) 3 AA size cells, also verifying its top + RED wire connection and BLACK wire - connection and then their being routed over to the 4 pin WHITE connector as being its pin 3 and 4 connections.

the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
Until I saw WHAT your device was being. I was initially considering illumination. Now we can see its related to creating "effect" lighting .

the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
I just previously acknowledged . . .

Re . . your markups labeling of the (power button), is it being the one that starts up a timed out effects demonstration ?
And its being sealed with a blob upon its WHITE wiring , then going DOWNWARDS , does it make a right angle rotation on the bottom . . . . . to then being forward facing ?

The motion sensor . . . . .
MUCH - MUCH smaller than I am usually encountering . . . .usually they are much larger in diameter.

View attachment 57592

i think the lamp has two LEDs.
Agreed . . . . . one as being the YELLOW flame light illumination and another COLOR one for illumination inside of the separate top flask.
Notice the joined / paired wires YELLOW AND WHITE color coding for that bottom " flame " wiring.
Logical . . . . that the companion GRAY AND WHITE paired cable might be for the separate LED light inside the flask.
CONFIRMATION ? . . . . .
Vewy-vewy cawefully . . . unplug the YELLOW AND WHITE connection and confirm that it no longer lites during an operational sequence.

There is also separate wires of of RED and BLACK, which must be the ultrasonic power drive level for the POWER piezoelectric element responsible for misting / fog inside the top flask. . . . its then wafting upward..
BTW . . . . for my information . . . just how much of that mister /fogging fluid needs to be added and at what intervals ? ? ? ? ?
Cuz' that transducer can be fractured (KAPUT !) if being left to run unloaded (dry) .

Referring to this blow up link below, of that unit, we can see, what looks like the GRAY AND WHITE PAIR and the RED and BLACK wires get routed . . . . possibly thru 1 hollowed support rod of the 3 and they then end up inside the top flask.

https://content.syndigo.com/asset/bec61d43-dc92-45c1-a814-e2f119e3c2e2/1920.jpeg

i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.
Right-o . . . agreed . . . . but at THAT time frame, I had not seen the photo of the WHOLE unit and can now see that it would be facing down toward the surface that the whole unit rests upon, with about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch spacing above that surface. . . . . . thereby . . . . letting its sound disperse laterally.
So o o o o o o o o lets let that still be a piezoelectric transducer, but now its acting as a "tweeter" speaker and handling only the very highest of audio frequencies . . . . bat shrieks, etc . . . or exotic high frequency music effects . .
Meanwhile, our other identified speaker is being a "squawker" optimizing on the voice range frequencies sound clips.
With a high likelihood, that the audio driver is being a right and left channel audio power amp, thereby frequency band pass circuitry is passing select high frequencies to the tweeter for one channel and voice frequency ranges get routed to the squawker by the other channel.

You Say . . . .
there is a 3 mm hole underneath it, like a button for a needle? what is it for.

like a button for a needle?
Reword that aspect to be:
That hole size is much like the hole size found in a button . . . . that hole . . . . . which a sewing needle passes through in the sewing on of that button.

what is it for.
The hole is to let the transducers generated sound out, not much area is needed at those high frequencies and limited sound levels.
Not so, on the units squawker speaker.


Now since the WHITE AND GRAY pair as well as the RED AND BLACK individual wires, seem to be non plug terminated . . .possibly hard wired in, beneath the circuit board. Time for you to remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws and provide pics of the other / foil side of the PCB for viewing.
( You're doing GR E E E E E A T so far ! )


hey, thank you very much for trying the help!

trying . . . . . . . ¿ trying ?

but . . . . . But . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . .

Haven't you received one HELL of a lot more of an Edd-u-cation after reading my posts, than before arriving here ?


ADD ONS . . .after just having read your 8:33 AM post

Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
This statement was related to the perception of the unit being placed such that the transducer face would be facing upward . . . as explained above . . . it stays facing downward to the surface that the unit is resting upon . . . . . . .so disregard ALL of that earlier statement.

the black & red wires (probably from the mister) that go under the board are connected to the thing you called inductor.
your confirmed observation just nailed that fact !
thus . . . . . leaving the co joined paired set of wires being for flask internal illumination



is what i need to do is to unsolder the mister wires from the inductor (while leaving the inductor?) & remove the speaker plugs & to solder the power wire to the motion detector on off switch?
You describe the unit as needing the prox detector needing to be turned on, if wanted to be activated by your personal proximity OR ELSE your having pressed the frontal ? manual push button.
It then goes thru its cycle and goes power dead, excepting for the minuscule proximity detector standby power pull . . . . . . all of the LEDS, audio and mister . . . . all power hogs . . . . . are then being disconnected . . . . . . . . until any reactivation.
On each of the two LEDS, one wire is grounded and the other is needing to get +4.5 VDC power from the battery pack via a transistor and current limiting resistor.

The other board side view is needed to see how this happening.

A double pole double throw manual switch is then installed to let the unit operate as it always was, or in its other position as having the proper voltage routed to the LEDS for their constant activation, all of the time that switch is being in that new position. ( The way you wanted it. )

will the electricity amount to the LED's stay the same?
After ascertaining the above info . . . .yeth.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Know what ? . . . . .
My wife is always stealing my t-shirts and sweaters . . . . but . . . . if I were to take just one of her dresses . . . . suddenly its . . . . . . "we need to talk" . . . . . .time.


.

hey
yes, the motion sensor's on switch is on the speaker side.

yes, the power button starts up a timed out effects demonstration.

no, the white wire of the power button doesn't do a right turn, it just goes down, then becomes the black wire you see that goes out of frame.

yes, i unplugged the first led (which was hard to figure out, it has like an arrow mechanism that locks it ) & it didnt turned on.

about the mister, i just fill the water a bit before the start of the bottleneck, its hard to get it at the right place for it to work, sometimes it works & sometimes it doesnt, intervals? i only filled water in it once, it works for 5 sec at a time.

as to the 2mm hole, i just found out that if the motion sensor is on then the lamp starts also by sound, could the 2mm hole be a sound sensor?

"( You're doing GR E E E E E A T so far ! )"
thanks! If im doing great, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants, your shoulders
& ye you're right, you ARE helping not trying

i guess i need to buy a soldering iron, right?

 

[cards1]

Sir cards1 . . . . .



firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch &
i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
Verify that the ORANGE wired on off switch for the motion sensor is having its slide knob being at the speaker end of its travel, when being left in its ON position.

secondly i want to add a more detalied ( de-tailed ! )picture.

That;s being MUCH more helpful . . .as I can now see the battery holder and its (now I know) 3 AA size cells, also verifying its top + RED wire connection and BLACK wire - connection and then their being routed over to the 4 pin WHITE connector as being its pin 3 and 4 connections.

the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
Until I saw WHAT your device was being. I was initially considering illumination. Now we can see its related to creating "effect" lighting .

the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
I just previously acknowledged . . .

Re . . your markups labeling of the (power button), is it being the one that starts up a timed out effects demonstration ?
And its being sealed with a blob upon its WHITE wiring , then going DOWNWARDS , does it make a right angle rotation on the bottom . . . . . to then being forward facing ?

The motion sensor . . . . .
MUCH - MUCH smaller than I am usually encountering . . . .usually they are much larger in diameter.

View attachment 57592

i think the lamp has two LEDs.
Agreed . . . . . one as being the YELLOW flame light illumination and another COLOR one for illumination inside of the separate top flask.
Notice the joined / paired wires YELLOW AND WHITE color coding for that bottom " flame " wiring.
Logical . . . . that the companion GRAY AND WHITE paired cable might be for the separate LED light inside the flask.
CONFIRMATION ? . . . . .
Vewy-vewy cawefully . . . unplug the YELLOW AND WHITE connection and confirm that it no longer lites during an operational sequence.

There is also separate wires of of RED and BLACK, which must be the ultrasonic power drive level for the POWER piezoelectric element responsible for misting / fog inside the top flask. . . . its then wafting upward..
BTW . . . . for my information . . . just how much of that mister /fogging fluid needs to be added and at what intervals ? ? ? ? ?
Cuz' that transducer can be fractured (KAPUT !) if being left to run unloaded (dry) .

Referring to this blow up link below, of that unit, we can see, what looks like the GRAY AND WHITE PAIR and the RED and BLACK wires get routed . . . . possibly thru 1 hollowed support rod of the 3 and they then end up inside the top flask.

https://content.syndigo.com/asset/bec61d43-dc92-45c1-a814-e2f119e3c2e2/1920.jpeg

i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.
Right-o . . . agreed . . . . but at THAT time frame, I had not seen the photo of the WHOLE unit and can now see that it would be facing down toward the surface that the whole unit rests upon, with about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch spacing above that surface. . . . . . thereby . . . . letting its sound disperse laterally.
So o o o o o o o o lets let that still be a piezoelectric transducer, but now its acting as a "tweeter" speaker and handling only the very highest of audio frequencies . . . . bat shrieks, etc . . . or exotic high frequency music effects . .
Meanwhile, our other identified speaker is being a "squawker" optimizing on the voice range frequencies sound clips.
With a high likelihood, that the audio driver is being a right and left channel audio power amp, thereby frequency band pass circuitry is passing select high frequencies to the tweeter for one channel and voice frequency ranges get routed to the squawker by the other channel.

You Say . . . .
there is a 3 mm hole underneath it, like a button for a needle? what is it for.

like a button for a needle?
Reword that aspect to be:
That hole size is much like the hole size found in a button . . . . that hole . . . . . which a sewing needle passes through in the sewing on of that button.

what is it for.
The hole is to let the transducers generated sound out, not much area is needed at those high frequencies and limited sound levels.
Not so, on the units squawker speaker.


Now since the WHITE AND GRAY pair as well as the RED AND BLACK individual wires, seem to be non plug terminated . . .possibly hard wired in, beneath the circuit board. Time for you to remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws and provide pics of the other / foil side of the PCB for viewing.
( You're doing GR E E E E E A T so far ! )


hey, thank you very much for trying the help!

trying . . . . . . . ¿ trying ?

but . . . . . But . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . .

Haven't you received one HELL of a lot more of an Edd-u-cation after reading my posts, than before arriving here ?


ADD ONS . . .after just having read your 8:33 AM post

Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
This statement was related to the perception of the unit being placed such that the transducer face would be facing upward . . . as explained above . . . it stays facing downward to the surface that the unit is resting upon . . . . . . .so disregard ALL of that earlier statement.

the black & red wires (probably from the mister) that go under the board are connected to the thing you called inductor.
your confirmed observation just nailed that fact !
thus . . . . . leaving the co joined paired set of wires being for flask internal illumination



is what i need to do is to unsolder the mister wires from the inductor (while leaving the inductor?) & remove the speaker plugs & to solder the power wire to the motion detector on off switch?
You describe the unit as needing the prox detector needing to be turned on, if wanted to be activated by your personal proximity OR ELSE your having pressed the frontal ? manual push button.
It then goes thru its cycle and goes power dead, excepting for the minuscule proximity detector standby power pull . . . . . . all of the LEDS, audio and mister . . . . all power hogs . . . . . are then being disconnected . . . . . . . . until any reactivation.
On each of the two LEDS, one wire is grounded and the other is needing to get +4.5 VDC power from the battery pack via a transistor and current limiting resistor.

The other board side view is needed to see how this happening.

A double pole double throw manual switch is then installed to let the unit operate as it always was, or in its other position as having the proper voltage routed to the LEDS for their constant activation, all of the time that switch is being in that new position. ( The way you wanted it. )

will the electricity amount to the LED's stay the same?
After ascertaining the above info . . . .yeth.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Know what ? . . . . .
My wife is always stealing my t-shirts and sweaters . . . . but . . . . if I were to take just one of her dresses . . . . suddenly its . . . . . . "we need to talk" . . . . . .time.


.

hey, is everything ok?

 

[cards1]

Sir cards1 . . . . .



firstly i want to add that the lamp has a motion sensor, it has a on/off switch &
i always keep it off, thats why i forgot about it.
Verify that the ORANGE wired on off switch for the motion sensor is having its slide knob being at the speaker end of its travel, when being left in its ON position.

secondly i want to add a more detalied ( de-tailed ! )picture.

That;s being MUCH more helpful . . .as I can now see the battery holder and its (now I know) 3 AA size cells, also verifying its top + RED wire connection and BLACK wire - connection and then their being routed over to the 4 pin WHITE connector as being its pin 3 and 4 connections.

the amount of light of the lamp is fine.
Until I saw WHAT your device was being. I was initially considering illumination. Now we can see its related to creating "effect" lighting .

the batteries are 3 AA 1.5v each.
I just previously acknowledged . . .

Re . . your markups labeling of the (power button), is it being the one that starts up a timed out effects demonstration ?
And its being sealed with a blob upon its WHITE wiring , then going DOWNWARDS , does it make a right angle rotation on the bottom . . . . . to then being forward facing ?

The motion sensor . . . . .
MUCH - MUCH smaller than I am usually encountering . . . .usually they are much larger in diameter.

View attachment 57592

i think the lamp has two LEDs.
Agreed . . . . . one as being the YELLOW flame light illumination and another COLOR one for illumination inside of the separate top flask.
Notice the joined / paired wires YELLOW AND WHITE color coding for that bottom " flame " wiring.
Logical . . . . that the companion GRAY AND WHITE paired cable might be for the separate LED light inside the flask.
CONFIRMATION ? . . . . .
Vewy-vewy cawefully . . . unplug the YELLOW AND WHITE connection and confirm that it no longer lites during an operational sequence.

There is also separate wires of of RED and BLACK, which must be the ultrasonic power drive level for the POWER piezoelectric element responsible for misting / fog inside the top flask. . . . its then wafting upward..
BTW . . . . for my information . . . just how much of that mister /fogging fluid needs to be added and at what intervals ? ? ? ? ?
Cuz' that transducer can be fractured (KAPUT !) if being left to run unloaded (dry) .

Referring to this blow up link below, of that unit, we can see, what looks like the GRAY AND WHITE PAIR and the RED and BLACK wires get routed . . . . possibly thru 1 hollowed support rod of the 3 and they then end up inside the top flask.

https://content.syndigo.com/asset/bec61d43-dc92-45c1-a814-e2f119e3c2e2/1920.jpeg

i dont think the 2 yellow wires relate to the mister, i dont know what they are for, check the new picture please.
Right-o . . . agreed . . . . but at THAT time frame, I had not seen the photo of the WHOLE unit and can now see that it would be facing down toward the surface that the whole unit rests upon, with about a 1/4 - 1/2 inch spacing above that surface. . . . . . thereby . . . . letting its sound disperse laterally.
So o o o o o o o o lets let that still be a piezoelectric transducer, but now its acting as a "tweeter" speaker and handling only the very highest of audio frequencies . . . . bat shrieks, etc . . . or exotic high frequency music effects . .
Meanwhile, our other identified speaker is being a "squawker" optimizing on the voice range frequencies sound clips.
With a high likelihood, that the audio driver is being a right and left channel audio power amp, thereby frequency band pass circuitry is passing select high frequencies to the tweeter for one channel and voice frequency ranges get routed to the squawker by the other channel.

You Say . . . .
there is a 3 mm hole underneath it, like a button for a needle? what is it for.

like a button for a needle?
Reword that aspect to be:
That hole size is much like the hole size found in a button . . . . that hole . . . . . which a sewing needle passes through in the sewing on of that button.

what is it for.
The hole is to let the transducers generated sound out, not much area is needed at those high frequencies and limited sound levels.
Not so, on the units squawker speaker.


Now since the WHITE AND GRAY pair as well as the RED AND BLACK individual wires, seem to be non plug terminated . . .possibly hard wired in, beneath the circuit board. Time for you to remove the two Phillips sheet metal screws and provide pics of the other / foil side of the PCB for viewing.
( You're doing GR E E E E E A T so far ! )


hey, thank you very much for trying the help!

trying . . . . . . . ¿ trying ?

but . . . . . But . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . . . BUT . . . .

Haven't you received one HELL of a lot more of an Edd-u-cation after reading my posts, than before arriving here ?


ADD ONS . . .after just having read your 8:33 AM post

Your scent sources liquids, is being puddled on its other side and the whole unit rotates so that that driven disc face, is then facing upward.
This statement was related to the perception of the unit being placed such that the transducer face would be facing upward . . . as explained above . . . it stays facing downward to the surface that the unit is resting upon . . . . . . .so disregard ALL of that earlier statement.

the black & red wires (probably from the mister) that go under the board are connected to the thing you called inductor.
your confirmed observation just nailed that fact !
thus . . . . . leaving the co joined paired set of wires being for flask internal illumination



is what i need to do is to unsolder the mister wires from the inductor (while leaving the inductor?) & remove the speaker plugs & to solder the power wire to the motion detector on off switch?
You describe the unit as needing the prox detector needing to be turned on, if wanted to be activated by your personal proximity OR ELSE your having pressed the frontal ? manual push button.
It then goes thru its cycle and goes power dead, excepting for the minuscule proximity detector standby power pull . . . . . . all of the LEDS, audio and mister . . . . all power hogs . . . . . are then being disconnected . . . . . . . . until any reactivation.
On each of the two LEDS, one wire is grounded and the other is needing to get +4.5 VDC power from the battery pack via a transistor and current limiting resistor.

The other board side view is needed to see how this happening.

A double pole double throw manual switch is then installed to let the unit operate as it always was, or in its other position as having the proper voltage routed to the LEDS for their constant activation, all of the time that switch is being in that new position. ( The way you wanted it. )

will the electricity amount to the LED's stay the same?
After ascertaining the above info . . . .yeth.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

Know what ? . . . . .
My wife is always stealing my t-shirts and sweaters . . . . but . . . . if I were to take just one of her dresses . . . . suddenly its . . . . . . "we need to talk" . . . . . .time.


.

hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.

 

[73's de Edd]

Re . . . .hey, is everything ok?
Got REAL-REAL-REAL . . . BIZZY . . . .reply is on its way . . .most hum-bubble apologies.
et . . . .
hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.
Its solution is a piece of cake . . . .

 

[cards1]

Re . . . .hey, is everything ok?
Got REAL-REAL-REAL . . . BIZZY . . . .reply is on its way . . .most hum-bubble apologies.
et . . . .
hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.
Its solution is a piece of cake . . . .

oh ok take your time, thanks!!

 

[cards1]

Re . . . .hey, is everything ok?
Got REAL-REAL-REAL . . . BIZZY . . . .reply is on its way . . .most hum-bubble apologies.
et . . . .
hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.
Its solution is a piece of cake . . . .

hey, hope everything is fine, just making sure you didn't forget, it has been long time let me know if you need something.

 

[cards1]

Re . . . .hey, is everything ok?
Got REAL-REAL-REAL . . . BIZZY . . . .reply is on its way . . .most hum-bubble apologies.
et . . . .
hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.
Its solution is a piece of cake . . . .

hello, since youre so busy i think i will buy a circuit board, someone told me to buy this one, but hes not an electrician, can you confirm it will be good for me please? i need it for two leds, which means 4 leds wires, 2 battery wires, & two on off switch wires, google said that yello & green leds are 2v each, the batteries are 4.5v combined, is this board good for it?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32842135081.html

 

[cards1]

Re . . . .hey, is everything ok?
Got REAL-REAL-REAL . . . BIZZY . . . .reply is on its way . . .most hum-bubble apologies.
et . . . .
hey man, did you gave up? is it too hard? let me know! will it be easier to just create a new circuit board? its just for two leds.
Its solution is a piece of cake . . . .

hey do you still want to help me out? or should i buy a new board? i need to know how long to wait tho.

 

[Martaine2005]

Hey, why mess around converting the PCB?
Why not just put a 5V LED strip, cut to whatever length you require and use a 5V power adapter?.
Or individual LEDs of course.

Martin

 

[cards1]

Hey, why mess around converting the PCB?
Why not just put a 5V LED strip, cut to whatever length you require and use a 5V power adapter?.
Or individual LEDs of course.

Martin

no i cant get to the leds, do you think this board will be good for it? because i see only 4 places for wires there? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32842135081.html