Modding a lamp

[Martaine2005]

ok thanks for the help!

If it gets too complicated with Edd, use my diagram for batteries > switch > resistor > LEDs.
Yes, is the answer to your previous question of mine.

Martin

 

[cards1]

If it gets too complicated with Edd, use my diagram for batteries > switch > resistor > LEDs.
Yes, is the answer to your previous question of mine.

Martin

ok thanks again! )

 

[cards1]

Yes, Edd is very thorough.
First tell me the things you don’t understand.
But in the meantime, a 30 Ohm resistor will supply approximately 10mA to the LEDs from your 3xAA (4.5V) batteries. Assuming 2.1 Vf .
You can of course use a higher value for less illumination and a little lower for more illumination.

Martin

you said i can use a higher value for less illumination and a little lower for more illumination. would 27 ohm & 33 ohm be ok for that? wont harm the leds?

 

[cards1]

wait so by your method will i be using the motion sensor's on off switch to power the lamp?
Here is your photo of the proximity switch.
I now see that its only a DPST switch vice 3PST but that will supply the needed switch, if you normally have the
unit in its turned off position.
I'm sort of expecting the two orange wires having one of those leads already connected to the +4.5 VDC battery source.
To confirm . . . . take DC metering . . . . set to the > 5VDC range, if not autoranging.
Meter negative goes to battery negative and with the prox pwr switch slid over to the off position check both of the orange wires to see if 4.5 is present, if so then all you need is a jumper wire from that wires switch terminal to the designated one on the new portion of that switch to now be used. Then only 1 wire needs to be run to the area of the Y1 and its RED dot foil area, with a 1K resistor in series at the end of the wire..

When the prox switch is in its off position the constant on LED drive is supplied to the Y1 switching transistor by your newly utilized other portion of that slide switch.


That's it . . .EASY PEASY.

HERE's your PHOTOGRAPH . . . . .

View attachment 58094

73's de Edd . . . . .


The severity of an itch always seems to be inversely proportional to your reaching capability.

also, can I do it without the DC meter?

 

[Martaine2005]

you said i can use a higher value for less illumination and a little lower for more illumination. would 27 ohm & 33 ohm be ok for that? wont harm the leds?

Yes, absolutely fine.

Martin

 

[cards1]

Yes, absolutely fine.

Martin

thanks )

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir
[B]cards1[/B]

Looks like for the total turning off the LED's that it would be best that you just installed a dedicated new SPST switch in series with that 1 K resistor.
Doing that, instead of using the vacant one on the vacant half of the motion sensor, since that use would be dependent upon
switching the sensor switch to its ON position, in order to disable the LED's constant on feature.
Then the miniscule power of that sensor in standby mode and quiescent COB should be the the only battery drain .

I can't see the use of the WHITE wired power button and its remoted wiring because PROBABLY that is being a momentary contact action push button that ACTUALLY will initiate a timed power on function within the COB, or else the COB then is driving one of the myriad of discrete transistors located just below it, for accomplishing that power switching.
Its not a conventional on or off switch, but a temporary, only on, with its pressed action.
BUT apparently you have no metering capability to confirm. Or a mechanic with no tools.


Now . . .GIT 'ER DONE !

And also answer the " to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum. . . . . . as, we is dying to know !


73's de Edd . . . . .


The easiest way to make a fire with two sticks . . . . is to FIRST make sure that ONE of them is a match.



.

 

[cards1]

Sir
[B]cards1[/B]

Looks like for the total turning off the LED's that it would be best that you just installed a dedicated new SPST switch in series with that 1 K resistor.
Doing that, instead of using the vacant one on the vacant half of the motion sensor, since that use would be dependent upon
switching the sensor switch to its ON position, in order to disable the LED's constant on feature.
Then the miniscule power of that sensor in standby mode and quiescent COB should be the the only battery drain .

I can't see the use of the WHITE wired power button and its remoted wiring because PROBABLY that is being a momentary contact action push button that ACTUALLY will initiate a timed power on function within the COB, or else the COB then is driving one of the myriad of discrete transistors located just below it, for accomplishing that power switching.
Its not a conventional on or off switch, but a temporary, only on, with its pressed action.
BUT apparently you have no metering capability to confirm. Or a mechanic with no tools.


Now . . .GIT 'ER DONE !

And also answer the " to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum. . . . . . as, we is dying to know !

View attachment 58129
73's de Edd . . . . .


The easiest way to make a fire with two sticks . . . . is to FIRST make sure that ONE of them is a match.



.

i can buy a new switch, but can you summarize concisely what i need to do please? because im confused.
also did you see the solution of the other guy? he said just to get a 30 ohm resistor & connect it all, with the original on off switch, do you think it will work?

 

[cards1]

Sir
[B]cards1[/B]

Looks like for the total turning off the LED's that it would be best that you just installed a dedicated new SPST switch in series with that 1 K resistor.
Doing that, instead of using the vacant one on the vacant half of the motion sensor, since that use would be dependent upon
switching the sensor switch to its ON position, in order to disable the LED's constant on feature.
Then the miniscule power of that sensor in standby mode and quiescent COB should be the the only battery drain .

I can't see the use of the WHITE wired power button and its remoted wiring because PROBABLY that is being a momentary contact action push button that ACTUALLY will initiate a timed power on function within the COB, or else the COB then is driving one of the myriad of discrete transistors located just below it, for accomplishing that power switching.
Its not a conventional on or off switch, but a temporary, only on, with its pressed action.
BUT apparently you have no metering capability to confirm. Or a mechanic with no tools.


Now . . .GIT 'ER DONE !

And also answer the " to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum. . . . . . as, we is dying to know !

View attachment 58129
73's de Edd . . . . .


The easiest way to make a fire with two sticks . . . . is to FIRST make sure that ONE of them is a match.



.

" to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum? what is this lol

 

[Martaine2005]

My easy solution would bypass all the internal electronics as already stated by @kellys_eye in post #2. “So you want a light with a switch”.
I said that all you need is 1 resistor. But now Saint Edd has mentioned whether it’s a momentary switch. If it is, you also need a simple on/off switch of whatever takes your fancy.

Martin

 

[73's de Edd]

" to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum? what is this lol

It relates to your unplugging the MAIN mid and low frequency range standard speaker and then , with it thereby producing no sound. Cycle the unit thru a demonstration to see if high frequency audio or sound effects are produced by the small piezo speaker mounted just to the side of the main speaker . . . . . . understand now ?

But now Saint Edd has mentioned whether it’s a momentary switch. If it is, you also need a simple on/off switch of whatever takes your fancy.
I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed . . . . . that initiates a timed turn on cycle, then cuts power off off, by the electronics within the COB chips circuitry.
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".

i can buy a new switch, but can you summarize concisely what i need to do please? because im confused.

PROCEDURE . . . .for the umteenth time . . . . .

A short lead 1K resistor gets one of its leads solder tacked into the RED dot foil area.
Its other free end is also short leaded and its sticking up, and that lead end get solder tacked onto a fine gauge hook up wire of "adequate" length to reach to the point that you have chosen to mount a dedicated on-off switch . That end of wire connects to one of the switches contacts. the other switch contact has another hook up wire connected to it and is routed to the B or C connection (same-same) on the top left photograph, to solder to that point.

also did you see the solution of the other guy? he said just to get a 30 ohm resistor & connect it all, with the original on off switch ***, do you think it will work?

FERGIDDABOUTIT . . . . . . . . . .because

***with the original on off switch
*** I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".



73's de Edd . . . . .

Life is short, make fun of it.


.

 

[cards1]

" to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum? what is this lol

It relates to your unplugging the MAIN mid and low frequency range standard speaker and then , with it thereby producing no sound. Cycle the unit thru a demonstration to see if high frequency audio or sound effects are produced by the small piezo speaker mounted just to the side of the main speaker . . . . . . understand now ?

But now Saint Edd has mentioned whether it’s a momentary switch. If it is, you also need a simple on/off switch of whatever takes your fancy.
I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed . . . . . that initiates a timed turn on cycle, then cuts power off off, by the electronics within the COB chips circuitry.
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".

i can buy a new switch, but can you summarize concisely what i need to do please? because im confused.

PROCEDURE . . . .for the umteenth time . . . . .

A short lead 1K resistor gets one of its leads solder tacked into the RED dot foil area.
Its other free end is also short leaded and its sticking up, and that lead end get solder tacked onto a fine gauge hook up wire of "adequate" length to reach to the point that you have chosen to mount a dedicated on-off switch . That end of wire connects to one of the switches contacts. the other switch contact has another hook up wire connected to it and is routed to the B or C connection (same-same) on the top left photograph, to solder to that point.

also did you see the solution of the other guy? he said just to get a 30 ohm resistor & connect it all, with the original on off switch ***, do you think it will work?

FERGIDDABOUTIT . . . . . . . . . .because

***with the original on off switch
*** I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".



73's de Edd . . . . .

Life is short, make fun of it.


.

strange, i didnt get a notification for your reply.
oh that conundrum, yes, i will check it out.
i see, the button might be bad for it, but just so you know, its an on off button, it has two states, as its for the motion sensor, its not the push button for the whole lamp that initiates a cycle. anyway im thinking of ordering this button, do you think it will work? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005060328076.html

also you said i will need a wire to connect the stuff, so im thinking of buying a simple wire as i dont know what exactly you mean by clip lead, but what wire gauge should i buy?

here are the other items im going to buy, thats all i need, right?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001931818502.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000485605478.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33020476135.html

 

[cards1]

" to tweet or not to tweet " conundrum? what is this lol

It relates to your unplugging the MAIN mid and low frequency range standard speaker and then , with it thereby producing no sound. Cycle the unit thru a demonstration to see if high frequency audio or sound effects are produced by the small piezo speaker mounted just to the side of the main speaker . . . . . . understand now ?

But now Saint Edd has mentioned whether it’s a momentary switch. If it is, you also need a simple on/off switch of whatever takes your fancy.
I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed . . . . . that initiates a timed turn on cycle, then cuts power off off, by the electronics within the COB chips circuitry.
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".

i can buy a new switch, but can you summarize concisely what i need to do please? because im confused.

PROCEDURE . . . .for the umteenth time . . . . .

A short lead 1K resistor gets one of its leads solder tacked into the RED dot foil area.
Its other free end is also short leaded and its sticking up, and that lead end get solder tacked onto a fine gauge hook up wire of "adequate" length to reach to the point that you have chosen to mount a dedicated on-off switch . That end of wire connects to one of the switches contacts. the other switch contact has another hook up wire connected to it and is routed to the B or C connection (same-same) on the top left photograph, to solder to that point.

also did you see the solution of the other guy? he said just to get a 30 ohm resistor & connect it all, with the original on off switch ***, do you think it will work?

FERGIDDABOUTIT . . . . . . . . . .because

***with the original on off switch
*** I HIGHLY suspicion that the connecting wire remoted "on-off-power switch ", is going to be a push button type. . . . . . .of momentary on contact . . .when its being pushed
Therefore, you could not use it for the powering on of your " special LED feature ".



73's de Edd . . . . .

Life is short, make fun of it.


.

can you give me the OK so I can order the stuff please, it will probably take close to a month to arrive )

 

[Martaine2005]

OMG, are we still on this?.
If your motion sensor switch is on/off, use that. Batteries >switch > resistor >LEDs.

Martin

 

[cards1]

OMG, are we still on this?.
If your motion sensor switch is on/off, use that. Batteries >switch > resistor >LEDs.

Martin

ok I will order the things, I will get a 26 awg wire in case ill need it, will arrive in about a month

 

[Martaine2005]

Use any wire!. Speaker wire, telephone cable, alarm cable,broken USB cable etc. We are talking milliAmps, so don’t be concerned.

Martin

 

[cards1]

Use any wire!. Speaker wire, telephone cable, alarm cable,broken USB cable etc. We are talking milliAmps, so don’t be concerned.

Martin

ok thanks )

 

[Delta Prime]

We are talking milliAmps, so don’t be concerned.

I can upset the rhythm of your heartbeat (skip a beat) with 40 milliamps.

 

[Martaine2005]

I can upset the rhythm of your heartbeat (skip a beat) with 40 milliamps.

Yeah!
But he’ll be illuminating an LED, not sucking the wire!

 

[Delta Prime]

Yeah!
But he’ll be illuminating an LED, not sucking the wire!

I like the way you put that.
And I was just joking about your eyebrows.
I would trust you even if you didn't have any.